Work ~ An Illustrated Magazine of Practice and Theory 1889-1892

WORK

dn illustrated iltaijasine of practice and (ziljearg

FOR ALL WORKMEN, PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR.

[All Rights reserved .J

Vol. III. —No. 119.] SATURDAY, JUNE 27, 1891. [Price One Penny.

proposed to straighten the edges, either by
sawing or by chopping with the axe, accord¬
ing to circumstances, and lining their inner
sides with thin board. If the cost be not
objected to, half-inch match-boarding* will
be neatest for this purpose ; if economy is
an object, the boards of packing-boxes,
bought from the grocer, might suflice. There
are, it will be seen, three sides only to be
lined.

Among a lot of rough planks, it is likely
that stuff may be found sufficient for the
posts and other scantling, but as this is

uncertain, I have
( zzz* shown these matters

as of regularly squared
stuff. As to the six
m pilasters, which are

_added for appearance

merely, it is possible
that stuff might be

be bought at saw-mills, or wherever saw¬
ing is going forward; and as they are
not looked upon as a marketable part of
the timber, they are sold at a tire-wood
price merely. Where their cost is not
sensibly increased by carriage, no other
material comes so cheaply for building rough
sheds. The ordinary country way of using
them is as in the liorizpntal section, Fig. 4.

This plan, however, is not suitable for our
purpose. In so small a structure, rough
planks on the inner side would too much
interfere with our space. It is, therefore,

i MODEL RUSTIC TOOL-HOUSE FOR
A SMALL GARDEN.

BY ARTHUR Y 0 R K E.

Materials—The Walls-—The Roof—Fittings.

Materials .—In this miniature rustic build¬
ing, the materials used are what are known
as “slabs” or “rough planks.” These are
cheap, and have, when judiciously handled,
a good picturesque effect. For those who
do not know them, I may explain that
these slabs are the outside slices, of which
two are cut from every

log of rough timber
when it is sawn into
boards. It is only our
native trees which
furnish them, im¬
ported timber being
hewn square before
it is sent to us. These
slabs generally retain
their bark (except in
the case of oak), and
in most districts they
will commonly be of
elm. Their thickness
and outlines are neces¬
sarily irregular : one
end will frequently be
narrower than the
other; and this will
account for the ar¬
rangement seen in the
walls and door of our
building. They are to

found which would,
when sawn to width,
do for them ; but 1
have rather supposed
them to be fir poles
or elm saplings; four
sticks only are needed
tosupplythe six halves
and four quarters used.

The U r alls .—At the
corners are four main
posts, 4 in. square.
These are shown at
a, a, a, a in the ground
plan. Fig. 3. These
enclose (outside

Fig. 3—Ground Plan.

L—Common Method
of using Slabs.

Fig. 1.—Elevation of End.

Fig. 5.—Cap of Pilaster (Enlarged)

Fig. 2.—Elevation of Side

226

French Polishing—More about Bodying in.

[Work—June 27,1891.

measurement) a space of 7 ft. by 5 ft.
They .are let into the ground 2 ft., and rise
5 ft. 3 in. above the ground line.

On their tops, and coining flush with
their outer edges, rest the wall-plates, which
are 3 in. deep ; these are needed at the
back and sides only, and not at the front.
On the same three sides will also be cross¬
rails, 2 in. to 3 in. thick, the ends of which
will be let flush into the posts about a foot
from the ground. To the wall-plates and
these rails the slabs are nailed. In the side
elevation, Fig. 2, the nails driven into the
cross-rails appear, but not those driven into
the wall-plate, a piece of rough stuff being
there shown as fixed over the latter to sup¬
port the eaves of the thatch.

To the front are to be seen the two door¬
posts, l, b, Fig. 3, which are 2 ft. 8 in. apart,
and should be about 3 in. square. As their
tops are nailed to the front pair of rafters,
they rise to a height of 6 ft. 6 in. The
space between door-post and corner-post is
filled up by a single slab nailed to the two—
5 ft. 6 in. long by 10 in. broad. Above
these, instead of a wall-plate, comes the

E iece of strong slab, shown in Fig. 1 as
aving an opening cut in it for the head
of the door. This is nailed against the
door-posts, rafters, etc.

The pilasters are only a matter of orna¬
ment. As drawn, they are of halved stuff;
the corner ones are so placed that their
middles come opposite to the corners of the
posts, on the other faces of which pieces of
quartered stuff are nailed to meet them.
The simple arrangement of the caps of these
pilasters, with their decorations of fir cones,
is shown on a larger scale in Fig. 5. The
horizontal piece beneath the eaves, nailed
over the slabs, has the effect of resting on
the caps. Beneath the thatch at front and
back corresponding pieces are fixed, those
at the front being ornamented with fir
cones nailed upon them.

The Roof— This is shown in the eleva¬
tions as thatched. No other covering will
look so well, or be so thoroughly in keeping
with other parts. The non-professional
builder finds it easy to prepare for thatch,
any rough stuff serving as rafters and laths,
and no accuracy being needed in putting
them together, since the thatcher, with his
accommodating material, is able to make
up any inequalities. The rafters for thatch
should be arranged about 1 ft., the laths
about 6 in., apart. In the article on Sum¬
mer-Houses, Vol. II., page 67 (No. 57), it
will be seen that more is said on the subject
of thatch and thatching for rustic buildings.

Should there, however, be reasons for not
employing this mode of covering, our build¬
ing may be more quickly and easily, if not
more cheaply, roofed with galvanised iron ;
only the gables will then best be made
sharp instead of blunt, as at present.

Fittings .—Of these, the door should first
be mentioned. Its outer slabs which ap¬
pear in Fig. 1 are simply nailed to three
ledgers of the same. Being of such rough
materials, it will open better if hung on
hooks and thimbles than on hinges.

As the space within will be strictly
limited, we must take care that everything
has its proper place—there is not room for
confusion. The dotted line at c, Fig. 3,
marks the projection of a set of shelves,
about five in number, which fill the whole
of the left-hand side. Of these, the lower
■will be for flower-pots, the upper for lines,
setting-pins, trowels, etc. At d is shown a
strip of wood fixed across the floor to hold
the wheel of the barrow from running back
when that useful vehicle is tilted up against

the end wall, which will be the place
assigned for it. In the gable and upper
part of this end will be hooks or pegs on
which to hang the riddle, watering-cans,
and such matters. At e is an upright let
into the ground, which, at the height of

2 ft., supports rails running to side and
back; these form a kind of stand for
spades, forks, and tools of that description.
Above, against the wall-plate, may be more
hooks or pegs.

It is suggested that at / a seat might be
fixed to fold down like the leaf of a table
when not wanted. As this building would
form a snug shelter in a shower, such a seat
would be a convenience; but the more
important use of this space is that slightly
below the level of the eaves it will be fitted
with a rack for hoes, rakes, and similar
implements. Such a rack is best made by
boring £ in. holes in a strip of wood at
intervals of 3 in., and driving pegs into
them 5 in. or 6 in. long. This has to be
nailed so that the pegs will slope upwards,
at an angle of about 45°. Rakes, etc., hung
in a rack so made cannot fall.

Figs. 1 and 2 are $ in. to the foot; Fig.

3 is i in. to the foot; but Figs. 4 and 5 are
not drawn to scale.

FRENCH POLISHING - MORE ABOUT

BODYING IN.

BY DAVID DENNING.

Appliances Necessary—Description op Process
—Moistening Wadding—Touching Rubber
with Oil—Application of More Polish—
How Long to Continue First Bodying in
—Continuation op Process—Sand-Papering
—Cleanliness Necessary—Drying Rubbers
—Edges.

Enough having now been said about
the polish— i.e., the material—we may see
about using it for bodying up. The wood,
it may be assumed, has been prepared by
filling of one kind or another, as fully ex¬
plained in a previous article, and rubbed
down smooth with the finest or worn glass-
paper, to make it in a fit state to receive the
polish ; for it will easily be understood that
a high degree of finish cannot be got on a
rough surface. The rubber with which the
polish is applied has also been sufficiently
fully treated of elsewhere, so that nothing
more need be said here about its prepara¬
tion beyond that it consists of cotton wad¬
ding with a soft rag cover.

Wood, rubber, polish, and a little raw
linseed oil being ready, bodying in may be
proceeded with.

Moisten the wadding with some of the
polish; put the rag cover on, being careful
that at the bottom it is even and smooth,
without any folds or wrinkles. Then, to
distribute the polish evenly throughout
the rubber, and cause it to moisten the rag
at the bottom properly, dab the rubber into
the palm of the left hand. The rubber is
now ready for application to the wood, and
the real work of polishing begins. Natu¬
rally. the beginner will not attempt to polish
anytning large at first, and it may, there¬
fore, be supposed that he has got a piece of
work which can conveniently he managed ;
and it may be well to remind him that his
aim should be to spread the polish equally
over the surface. The exact way in which
this is done must depend to some extent on
the shape of the wood, and also on the
habit of the polisher ; but, supposing it is a
panel or flat surface which is being treated,
the following method will be found as good

as any, and is one that is more or less fol¬
lowed. by experienced polishers.

Briskly rub across the grain, just to get
the surface covered; then proceed by a series-
of circular movements, as shown in the dia¬
gram in page 54, to go over the whole of the
work with a moderate amount of pressure,,
which should be gradually increased as the
rubber dries, but at no time should the-
movement degenerate into mere scrubbing.
In order that the rubber may work smoothly
without sticking, its face should be just
touched with a little of the raw linseed oil.
The less of this used the better, and if it
could be dispensed with altogether no harm
would be done. Unfortunately, however, it
cannot well be dispensed with, and the only
thing is to use as little as can be managed
with to make the rubber work smoothly.
A very little will suffice. Just moisten the
tip of a finger with oil, and touch the face
of the rubber with it; that is all that is re-

3 uired. _ The rubber certainly must not be
ipped in the oil, nor must the oil be dropped,
or poured on it from a bottle ; for by any of
these means more oil would be applied than
is necessary—in fact, instead of being an-
assistance, the oil would prove fatal to good
work.

As the rubber dries, more polish must be
applied to it, as in the first instance, with,
oil as required. A very small quantity of
polish goes a lon<* way, and I must impress-
upon the novice the necessity of not making
the rubber too wet. It should be fairly
moist, and nothing more. Perhaps the best
way to explain, to those who are unac¬
quainted with the process altogether, what
is wanted will be by comparing the rubber
to a sponge, and illustrating what is wanted
by means of this and water. Saturate the-
sponge with as much water as it will hold,
and, supposing it to be a rubber with polish,
it will be far too wet. Squeeze out some of-
the water till none drops from it if not
squeezed, but leaving sufficient in to run out-
on the sponge being rubbed on anything-
hard. Still too wet for polishing purposes.
Now squeeze all the water out till the sponge-
is almost dry, and will just damp anything
on which it is rubbed without water flowing
from it. This is just about what is wanted
with the polishing rubber, and for ordinary
bodying in it should never be wetter.

But, perhaps, many a beginner, noticing
how tedious the work is with such a dry
rubber, may be inclined to think that if he
used more polish at a time the desired re¬
sult would he more quickly attained. Well,
if the object were merely to get the wood
coated anyhow, this might be the case ; but-
the result of using too much polish would
be that, instead of a fine even coating or
body, the shellac left by the evaporation of
the spirit—and it is almost unnecessary to
say that the spirit evaporates quickly—
would be ridgy and irregular. Anything at
all approaching a flow of polish from the
rubber must be avoided. On the other
hand, if the rubber is not sufficiently charged
with polish, the labour of bodying up will
be unduly protracted, if not rendered im¬
possible, from the fact that no polish can
be rubbed on to the wood.

The bodying in should be continued—that
is to say, the first one—till it seems that the
wood absorbs no more of the polish. Then-
will be a perceptible gloss on its surface, but
it will be streaky, and show the rubber-
marks very distinctly. Never mind that,
though, for all these marks will be removed
later on—at least, let it be hoped so, for
directions how will be given in due course.

It may be said that, if the polish is too

Work—June 27 ,1891.] The Safety Bicycle : its Practical Construction, eic.

227

thick or too thin, the results will be very
much the same as if the rubber -were too wet
or too dry. As it may be difficult for the
novice to hit the happy medium, it may be
as well for him to know that the principal
objection to having the polish too thin is
that it will take a longer time— i.e, more
work to get a good body on the wood. It
will, however, be better to run the risk of
this than to have the polish too thick. An
experienced polisher would soon detect any
fault in either direction by the way in
which the polish works, but it cannot be
expected that the novice should do so.
He must, therefore, be on the look-out for
any irregularities in the shape of lumps or
ridges wmich he may see, and, with a little
attention, he will have no difficulty in avoid¬
ing serious mishaps.

Now, instead of hurrying on with the
work, let it stand for at least a day, care¬
fully covered up from dust; and on examin¬
ing it again the body will be found to have
sunk, but to what extent will depend upon
circumstances. Any way, even the begin¬
ner will not fail to notice that it presents an
altered appearance from that which it had
when it was put away. This is owing to the
polish having sunk into the wood, more or
less. To compensate for this sinking, the
work must be bodied up as before, always
remembering to use as little oil as possible.
The work will again be laid aside, and the
bodying process be repeated till no more
seems to sink in, even if the work is laid
aside for a few days. When this stage is
reached the bodying may be considered
complete, and the work ready for the first
polishing operations. Before proceeding to
consider these, I have, however, to make
some general remarks, which will enable the
learner to work with more chance of success
than if he were left alone, and told to glaze
or spirit off. How to do these operations
must be left for a future article, and mean¬
while the novice will do well to note the
following hints.

The number of times the work will re¬
quire to be bodied up depends almost en¬
tirely on circumstances ; but even for the
best work, and that which is intended to be
as durable as it can be, it need rarely exceed
four. Fine, close-grained woods will not re¬
quire so many as the more open kinds, such
as oak, ash, mahogany, etc. Any reason¬
able interval—that is, one of several days
—may elapse between the different bodies,
the great object of waiting being to let
them sink as much as they will. If, for ex¬
ample, after having laid the work aside for a
few days, the polish has not sunk at all, no
object would be gained by giving it another
body, and so on with future bodyings. Of
course, it is very seldom that the first body
is enough. All the same, only one body is
often applied in the trade, where either price
or the limited time within which a job must
be finished will not allow of more, so that
cabinet-makers and others who may wish to
do a bit of polishing must not suppose the
process cannot be hurried.

Still, imperfect bodying is not advisable,
as it will not be long before the work will
want “ touching up.” Of course, if a job is
like certain oft-referred-to razors, “madeto
sell,” one body, and that of the slightest, is
quite sufficient—from the seller’s, if not
from the buyer’s, point of view.

Between the bodyings, especially after
the first and second, the surface should be
rubbed down with the finest glass-paper,
not to such an extent a-s to rub all the body
off, but just enough to smooth it. It may
here be remarked that the pumice powder

referred to in a previous article is, when
used iu moderation, useful for working
down inequalities of surface. Although
papering has been stated to be necessary
after the first and second bodies, it must not
be supposed that it may not be done after
any others if they require it, which, how¬
ever, they should not if the work has been
skilfully done. In fact, as we shall see later
on, the final bodying up may almost be re¬
garded as the beginning of the spiriting off.

Before beginning to work a fresh body on
a previous one, it is just as well to wash the
surface gently with a little lukewarm water,
and not too much of it, in order to remove
the grease and allow the rubber to work
freely. The water must be thoroughly dried
up before applying the rubber, and, as is
often the case, the washing may be omitted.
In moderation, however, it can never do
harm, and is generally an advantage, even
though not absolutely necessary. When
any long interval has elapsed the washing
should never be omitted, as, of course, dust
—otherwise “ matter in the wrong place ”—
will settle on the work, and should not be
rubbed into the polish.

Professional polishers should be careful to
see that their hands are clean, or free from
the old polish, which is so often seen on
them, when doing any bodying up. If they
are covered with the old polish or shellac,
bits are apt to flake off and destroy the
purity of the new work. Of course, this
remark applies equally to amateurs and
novices, but their hands are not so likely to
have old polish sticking to them. As
polishing is not altogether clean work, this
may be an appropriate place to say that any
polish which sticks to the hands—as some
is sure to—may be washed away with hot
water and soda, or with methylated spirit.

There may be some risk of novices sup¬
posing that a thick body is desirable : the
opposite is the case, for it should be as thin
as it can be. It is not so much the quantity
of body on the wood as its quality that is
required, and the way in which it has been
applied, with sufficient intervals between
the various bodies to allow of sinkage.

Another important matter is to dry the
rubbers well out—that is to say, work them
on each body till they are dry, and do not be
continually moistening them. By this means
the film of shellac is kept as thin as possible.

On no account should a wet rubber—or, I
may say, one wet -or dry—be allowed to
stand on a surface while it is being polished.
The rubber must be kept moving, and
should, if I may so express it, glide gradu¬
ally on to the work, instead of being
plumped down on it. In the initial stages
of bodying, care in this respect is not so im¬
portant as later on, when it is absolutely
necessary. The same degree of caution
should be used when lifting the rubber from
the work.

If it can be said that one portion of a
piece of work requires more attention than
another, it is towards the edges. On the
“take care of the pence and the pounds will
take care of themselves ” principle, it may
be laid down as a rule for the guidance of
the beginner, that if he takes care of his
edges the rest of the surface will look after
itself. The reason is that the edges are apt
to be somewhat neglected, and the polish
to be less there than elsewhere.

With the remark that the secret of a good
durable polish depends primarily on a good
body, and this, in its turn, on sufficient time
having been allowed for sinkage, my re¬
marks on this part of my subject must be
closed

THE SAFETY BICYCLE: ITS PRACTI¬
CAL CONSTRUCTION, ETC.

BY A. 8. P. '

Building tiie Wheels.

Component Parts of Wheels—Spokes—'Wheel
to be Built—Dividing out Kim—Finding
Length of Spokes—Fitting Oil Cup—Wiring
One Side of Wheel—Wiring the Other
Side—Determining Position of Chain-Coo
—Loose Cone—Bottom Brackets—Direct
Spoke-Wheel, why Described.

Our first practical work will be the build¬
ing of the wheels. The wheels consist of
hubs, spokes, rims, and tires, and there are
various kinds of each of these. With re¬
gard to hubs, we have them of solid steel
casting all in one piece ; again, we have
them of steel and gun-metal in combination,
the steel parts being the two caps in the
ends, whicli are hardened for the wear of
the balls, and in the case of the rear hub the
chain cog-wheel is also of hardened steel.

Spokes are of various kinds : as direct,
butted, laced, and tangent. Direct spokes
are those in which the wire is all of one
thickness, screwed at the end next the hub;
the hub being bored for them direct to¬
wards the centre, they enter the hub about
in. Butted spokes also enter the hub
direct in the same way and to the same
depth as the above, but the end of this
spoke is thickened and screwed on this
thick part. The spoke itself is usually No.
11 or 12, while the screw part at the end is
No. 8. Common direct spokes usually snap
just at the edge of the hub where the screw¬
ing has left off; it will, therefore, be apparent
to anyone that a spoke thickened to nearly
double at that part will be much stronger.
I may mention that the Singer Company
build nearly all their machines with butted
spokes, and in all my experience in repair¬
ing their machines, I have hardly ever found
a broken spoke. I have found numbers
pulled right out of the hub, but never
broken. Tangent spokes have their heads
at the'liub and the screwed ends at the
rim, where nipples are used to tighten up
the wheel. The hub flanges are made thin,
and holes bored sideways for the spokes ;
the spokes are bent at the neck—that is, a
little way behind the head—and passed
through the flange towards the rim. Laced
spokes again have two spokes in each
length of wire; the flanges are made the
same as the last, but the spokes have no
heads whatever, they are simply laced
through the flanges; the wire, being long
enough for two spokes, is doubled in the
middle, and the ends led away to the rim at
more or less of a tangent ; the ends arc
screwed and fitted with nipples as in the
last case. Tangent and laced wheels have
usually hollow rims, which allow the nipples
to be sunk out of the way of the rubber
tire. A wheel with a hollow rim is con¬
sequently dearer, the rim alone being four
or five times dearer than an ordinary crescent
rim.

The wheel we propose building for our
Safety is of the simplest direct order with
No. 10 spokes, headed at the rim. We will
describe the building of one wheel, as the
building of both is precisely the same. Say
you have purchased a pair of hubs, tapped
and plated ready for putting into your
wheels. The rear hub should have not less
than forty spoke-holes, and the front hub
not less than thirty. A screw-plate should
be provided to screw the spokes, same
gauge as the hubs are tapped.

Say you purpose building the rear wheel.
Find the number of holes in the hub, and

228

[Work—June 27,1891.

The Safety Bicycle: its Practical Construction, etc.

ing, aitd the full size of the wire, so that on
building the wheel the screwed part will go
out of sight in the flange. The spoke is in
this way a little less liable to break off
level with the flange, and when it does
break off, it is at the end of the screwing
and a little within the level of the flange,
leaving a good recess for boring out the
stump.

The next step before beginning to put up
the wheel is to fit the oil cup, and leave it
in its place. Now try a spoke in the hub,
and screw it home; see that it is not too
stiff to screw up, nor too easily screwed up;
it should screw home with the spoke-grip
without forcing, and it should not be so
easy as to screw home with the fingers and
without the use of the grip. Be sure that
all the spoke-holes in the hub are properly
cleaned out and properly tapped. Now to
put the wheel together, place the rim on

r

Work—Jane 27, 1891. J

Engine and Boiler Management.

229

adjusted and the outside nuts well up, the
cone cannot run either way. Some makers
of hubs, however, have both the cones loose;
in this case the nuts must be kept well up,
or the right cone will be sure to run in and
jam the balls, stopping the wheel.

This rule with regard to the loose cone
must be observed the same with the front
wheel as with the back.

With regard to many of the bottom
brackets in use the same rule holds good, as
the pedal shaft has a fast and loose cone,
with the chain-wheel keyed on immediately
behind the fast cone. In this case the
chain-wheel and chain should always be on
the right side of the machine, which places
the loose cone on the left , where it' should
be. I have handled many machines, how¬
ever. where this rule was disregarded. In
our bottom bracket, however, the two bear¬
ings are separate, being the same as those
used on an ordinary bicycle, consequently
we can fix our chain - wheel on either
side.

I have, in this paper, described a plain
direct spoke wheel on account of the diffi¬
culty of building one with butted spokes in
the absence of a spoke heading machine,
which costs between £4 and £5. A butted
spoke being No. 14, and the butt end No. 8,
the rim is bored with a No. 13 drill, so it
will be readily seen the butted end will not
pass through the rim ; for this reason butted
spokes have no heads, and are passed
through the rim from the inside and a head
worked on after the spoke is in the rim,
hence the need of a heading machine. In
the absence of a heading machine, I use a
very simple contrivance which does the
work fairly well. It is illustrated in Fig. 13,
a, b, and consists of two steel plates, 4 in.
long, 2 in. broad, and J in. thick. Plate a
has two | in. round steel pins fixed into it ;
plate b has two holes to receive these pins,
and the two plates when shut are flush all
round with each other. Along the centre of
both plates a shallow V-shaped groove is
made, both grooves together being a little less
than the thickness of a spoke. When the two
plates are firmly caught together, a counter¬
sink is made at one end where the grooves
terminate ; this counter-sink is the recess to
form the spoke head (see a in Fig. 13). To
use this tool, the spoke is caught between the
two plates in the grooves, about in. pro¬
truding beyond the plates at the counter¬
sink end. In this position it is caught in a
strong vice, and the head formed by ham¬
mering the projection into the counter-sink;
of course, the spoke has been passed pre¬
viously through the rim. In building a new
wheel, all the spokes would be cut the pro¬
per length, butt ends screwed, then passed
through the rim and headed, after which the
wheel would be built as described in the
earlier part of this chapter. The spoke
grip referred to in this chapter is illustrated
in Fig. 14, and may be bought for Is. 6d.
Before closing this paper, I deem it advis¬
able to say a word regarding cushion tires,
which are the rage just now, it being just
possible that our cycle builder may not be
content with the £ in. crescent rim and solid
tire herein described. If he purposes
having a cushioned-tire machine, the tire
should not be less than 1% in. diameter. A
tire of that sort is shown in Fig. 15, with a
section of the rim used, or ought to be used,
with it, the edges being turned out and
blunted or beaded to prevent cutting the
rubber. The hole in this tire is £ in., and,
as will be noticed, is not central, but a little
nearer the rim. Rims of this sort can be
had, as well as hollow rims, formed on the

rubber side in the same way, of Thomas
Warwick’s make.

It must be borne in mind that a 1 } in. tire
requires a wider fork to let it pass through,
also a broader spoon for the break, as well
as broader mud-guards. Our next work in
cycle building will be at the lathe and
fitter’s vice.

AN IMPROVED PIN-STOP BENCH-

BLOCK. *

BY J. BLACKMORE WILLIAMS.

Those workmen familiar with the common
work-bench used by joiners, cabinet-makers,
etc., are, I venture to state, well aware of
the fact that the present bench-block mostly
in use consumes a vast amount of time in
adjusting, and the amount of labour re¬
quired in, say, a year’s time, where there are
a number of workmen employed in shops
and other places, is something enormous,
to say nothing of the constant change of
position, as the workman has usually to go
round the corner of his bench to knock the
block into the position he desires. The
bench I use is for convenience pushed up
against a wall, from which is suspended
a woodrack, and in adjusting my bench-
block I invariably experienced a great diffi¬
culty, which I remedied in the following
manner :— . •

I sawed out of the end of the bench a
piece, 10 in. by 2 in., and cut from the screw
to the end of the bench-board on a slant, as
shown in Fig. 1. I then procured an iron
plate, perforated with small holes at intervals
of £ in., and grooved at the sides (as shown
in plan and section at a and b, Fig. 3) for
the reception of another plate, 2} in. oy 2 in.,
as shown at f. On to the latter plate, which

Fig. 1.—End of Bench fitted with Williams* Bench-
Stop, showing Stop at l£ in. greatest height.

was } in. in thickness, I screwed from the
underside of the plate my pin-stop bench-
block, which must be cut on the level at the
bottom, and so arranged for height that when
it reaches the end of the bench, as in Fig. 2,
it is perfectly level with the face of the bench.
Fig. 1 will clearly show the reader the ap¬
pearance of the block when adjusted, a being
the bench-block, and b the bevelled groove,
perforated with holes for the reception of
the stop-pin, as shown at c in Fig. 3. At d
is shown the 2£ in. by 2 in. plate with screw-
holoB, for fastening the wood bench-block,
and E shows the bench-block when screwed
on to the plate. At f is shown the bench-

block complete, a and b, in Fig. 3, illustrate
the permanent plate, B showing tjie manner
in wnich the grooves are formed for securely
holding the bench-block. The workman will
readily see from the design the manner in
which the block is raised or lowered by
pushing it along the permanent plate ; and
on getting the desired height, he drops the
stop-pin into one of the holes nearest the
back of the bench-block. Some objection
may be raised by workmen on the ground
that when the block is at the end of the
bench there is a cavity into which, say, an

TOOL BOX

£

Fig. 2.—End Section of Bench, showing Pin- Stop

Block at lowest height.

p mmm

Fig. 3.—Parts of Pin-Stop Block—A, Iron Plate
pierced for Pin in Plan; B, Plate in Section;
C, Pin and Block.

inch board, in being shot, would fall in ;
but he will readily remedy this by letting in
a slot-piece, fitted level with the face of the
bench. Of this fact, there is no doubt that
those workmen who adopt this inexpensive
improvement will not only save a vast
amount^of time, but they will be able to
adiust it without moving from the screw.
I had at first thought to arrange a slot
movement, but thinking of the quantity of
sawdust which would tend to choke the
cogs, I decided on the pin-stop, which leaves
the permanent plate clear, and may be
fastened to the bench by means of a small
chain.

ENGINE AND BOILER MANAGEMENT.

BY M. POWIS BALE, M.INST.M.E.,
A.M.INST.C.E.,

Author of 11 A Handbook for Steam Users,'' “Wood¬
working Machinery ” “Stone-working Machinery,"’
“ Pumps and Pumping ” etc.

Rules for Engine Drivers and Boiler

Attendants.

Filling Boiler—Examining Water-Gauge and
Test-Cocks — Cleaning Tubes — Lighting
Fire—Examining Safety-Valves—Lubrica¬
tion, etc.—Examining Bearings—Raising
Steam Slowly—Regular Admission of Feed-
Water—Examining Height of Water in
Boiler — Starting Engine —Surplus of
Steam—Testing Safety-Valves and Pres¬
sure-Gauges—How to Test Pump—In Case
of Low Water—In Case of Safety-Valves
Sticking—Priming—Examining and Testing
Steam Exhaust.

Owing to the multiplicity of types of
engines and boilers in use, it is difficult to
draw up a code of rules in which the word¬
ing will apply equally well in all cases.
The principle s, however, embodied in the
following rules may be generally applied,

Engine and Boiler Management.

[Work—June 27, 189L

230

although the phraseology may sometimes
require slight modification.

1. Filling the Boiler. —Fill the boiler
with water till it rises to the mark on the
gauge which shows the waterline. If there
is no water line marked, fill till the gauge
glass is about three-quarters full.

± Examine Water-Gauge and Test-Cocks.
—Open all the water-gauge and test-cocks,
and see that they are in order. If the water
does not enter the gauge glass freely, it
must be unscrewed and a piece of wire
passed through the openings in the boiler.

3. Cleaning Tubes , etc.— Remove all soot
from the tubes, and clear the fire-bars and
ash-pit of clinkers and ashes. If the flues
are dirty, have them swept.

4. Lighting the Fire.— Light the fire,
which should be Icept bright and even, and
of a thickness of about 4 in. to 6 in. in
tubular boilers, and from 9 in. to 12 in. in
Cornish or Lancashire boilers, except when
there is a surplus of steam, when a thicker
lire may be used. The thickness of the fire
should be regulated by the nature of the
fuel. Should the draught be bad from
dampness, direction of wind, or other cause,
a temporary artificial draught may be made
by lighting some shavings in the smoke-box
or chimney.

5. Examine Safety- Valves.—As the fire
burns up examine the safety-valve, and see
that it moves freely in its seat. Examine
float or low-water alarm if one is fitted.

6 . Lubrication , etc.— Fill the lubricators.
A little fine powdered plumbago or asbestos
may be added with advantage, especially to
the cylinder lubricator. The use of the best
quality of oil or grease is to be recom¬
mended. What is required is a neutral
grease that will not develop free or fatty
acids under the action of steam. Its melt¬
ing point should be low, so that it will
liquefy with a small amount of heat, and
yet it should retain sufficient body, that it
'will not readily run from the bearing sur¬
faces. Lubricate piston rod and guides.
Examine eccentric, and see that the key is
tight and the lead of the valve has not been
accidentally altered.

7. Examine the Bearings. —Examine sys¬
tematically and screw up the bearings of
the engine, not too tightly ; this is best
done, if required, immediately after finishing
work for the day, as they are then expanded
from the friction of working and are in
their running condition. If bearings are
tightened in the morning before commenc¬
ing work, which is usually the plan, they
are cold, and therefore contracted. If
a bearing get hot, cool with water and
scrape off all scored or rough places;
if it knock in working, let the faces
of the bearing be slightly closer together.
Lubricate well with a mixture of grease or
oil and powdered plumbago, say three of
grease to one of plumbago. If the bearing
be large and subject to great strain or pres¬
sure, the proportion of plumbago may be
increased. Replenish all lubricators before
starting work, and guard all bearings as
much as possible from dust. If there is
undue friction on the bearings, particles of
metal will be found in the oil after using if
it is spread on white paper.

8. liaise Steam Slowly — Always raise
steam slowly and avoid forcing the fire, as
this causes uneven expansion and strains
and damages the seams and boiler plates.
Keep an even pressure of steam, but not
one that has to blow to waste through the
safety-valve.

9. Regular Admission of Feed-Water .—
Hot feed-water is in every way to be pre¬

ferred to cold ; but if cold is used, do not
admit it into the boiler in large quantities
at a time. Keep the pump working regu¬
larly, but with the admission valve only

S rtly open. We recommend the use of a
id-water heater, but if one is not fitted,
direct the exhaust steam into the water-
tank, say a quarter of an hour after starting,
as by that time any accumulated grease
from the cylinder may have blown away.

10. Examine Height of Water in Boiler.
—Examine height of water frequently
during the day, and try gauge and test-cocks
and float. Blow-out and scum taps should
be opened once a day at least, oftener if the
water is bad. Be sure that the float is
acting properly, as it is apt to stick, es¬
pecially if of very light construction. The
water-level in Cornish or Lancashire boilers
above the surface of the flue should never
be below 4 in. in depth under any circum¬
stances, and a working level of about 9 in.
will generally be found most suitable. In
finishing work at night leave a full supply
of water, in case of leakage or frost.

11 . Starting the Engine. — Supposing
steam to be up to the working pressure, the
safety-valve having been tested at inter¬
mediate points, turn the fly-wheel of the
engine till the crank shaft is at half-centre.
Before starting, let the engine cylinder be
thoroughly warmed; this is especially ad¬
visable with large engines or in frosty
weather. Now open the cylinder cocks and
turn on the starting lever or valve gradually
to about one-third of its traverse. Steam
now enters the cylinder, and the engine is
set in motion. When no more water is
expelled from the cylinder, close the cocks.
See that there is no leakage of steam from
the piston-rod packings or any of the joints.
Allow the bearings of a new engine to be a
little slack for a time. Never start or stop
an engine suddenly.

12 . Surplus of Steam.— When there is a
surplus of steam, close the damper, rake the
fire-bars so as to admit the air from below,
open the ashpan lid if there is one, and keep
the furnace door closed. (N.B.—The author
recommends, wherever possible, the use of a
damper worked by steam automatically, as
it is certain in its action and independent
of the boiler attendant. It can be arranged
to act at any desired pressure of steam, and
effects an appreciable saving in fuel. It is
important, whatever form of automatic
damper is used, that it is arranged with a
sensitive action. This may be secured by
hanging the damper on a steel-pointed
screw pin, and making the working parts
with steel centres and V edges. This will
allow the damper to open or close with
rapidity when the desired pressure of steam
is reached.) Where the work varies very
much, automatic expansion gear should be
fitted.

13. Testing Safety-Valves and. Pressure-
Gauges.— Test the safety-valve at least
twice a day ; if about £ in. to $ in. of space
is shown between the valve and its seat for
the escape of steam, this is usually sufficient
if the valve is of proper area for the boiler,
but some valves are arranged to lift less
than this. Pressure-gauges should also be
occasionally tested by shutting off the steam
and letting the pointer run back to zero;
for this purpose the cock to the gauge
should be arranged to open to the atmo¬
sphere when shut off from the boiler.
Check also the safety-valve against the
pressure-gauge by altering the former to
blow off at whatever pressure is at that
time shown on the pressure-gauge. If they
do not agree, have the gauge tested by a

standard one. See that the figures on the
pressure-gauge are large and plainly marked,
so that they may easily be read at some
distance away. It is also best to distinguish
the average or safe working pressure of the
boiler by a red line on the gauge; this can
readily be reduced as the boiler deteriorates.
If the pressure-gauge shows the blowing-off
point, and the safety-valve is found to be
stuck or inoperative from any cause, start
the feed-pump, close the damper, and open
the furnace door. Start the engine should
it be standing, and let the fire out or draw
it when the pressure is reduced. Never
under any circumstances wedge down or
overweight a safety-valve, and “ wire-draw¬
ing ” the steam should not be resorted to.
Should the valve leak at all, have it re-
ground at once and made perfectly steam-
tight.

14. Ilow to'Test the Pump. —Test the
pump occasionally by opening the waste-
tap ; if no water is expelled the pump is not
working, either from there not being a
vacuum, the packing or joints being out of
order, the valves choked with dirt, or the
pump hot. Before taking it to pieces place
your hand tightly on the end of the waste-
pipe, allowing the air to be discharged from
the pump by the inward stroke of the
plunger, but not allowing any air to re-enter
during the outward stroke. If this has the
desired effect in setting the pump to
work, close the waste-tap, and the water
will be forced into the boiler. If the pump
gets hot, pour cold water on it. If hot
water continually issues from the waste-
cock, the probability is the check-valve
nearest the boiler is choked. In this case
the steam must be blown off and the fire
put out. the valve-box cover must be taken
off, and the dirt or obstruction that pre¬
vents the valve acting removed. If the suc¬
tion or delivery valves are choked, hot
water will not pass through the waste-
cock ; these valves may be examined when
the engine is working, but should the defect
not even then be discovered, the suction-
valves, delivery-valves, and the packing of
the plunger must be examined and the
packing renewed, as the pump is probably
drawing air; screw up and clean the union
nut of the suction pipe, and make another
trial. Occasionally a valve that has stuck
may be released by a few sharp blows of a
hammer on the outside of the clack cover.
If a pump plunger is worn it will not
act, at any rate satisfactorily, and should
be seen to. In case it is necessary to take
the pump to pieces, should there be no
check-valve fitted or it be choked, be sure
that the water stop-valve is closed, or the
boiler may be draiued of water and an acci¬
dent occur. If a valve has too much lift
it is apt to stick, and should, therefore, be
adjusted periodically as it wears. Feed¬
pipes should in all cases be of ample size,
owing to their liability to fur up. Bends in
the suction or delivery pipes should be
avoided. Take every precaution to prevent
sand or grit getting into the feed-water.

15. In case of Low Water.— In case of low
water—that is, where none shows in the
gauge-glass or lower test-cock—draw the
fire immediately; but, should the furnace
crown be red-hot, cover the fire with earth
or wet ashes so as to smother it. Close the
damper and ash-pit door and open the fur¬
nace door. If the boiler is very hot, and the
heat is likely to be much intensified by
drawing the fires, it would be well to smother
them instead of drawing, but judgment
should be used, as no fixed rule can be laid
down. If a little water is shown by the

Work—June 27, 189L]

Artistic Lithography.

231

lower test-cock, tlie

feed may be turned 20 » 2L ~

on. # The Manches¬
ter Steam Users’

Association say in
this connection :

“Shortness of water

generally arises from __

neglect of the boiler ^

-attendant, and ought -

not to occur. It is by

no means easy to give precise instructions
as to what should be done to put things
right when shortness of water has occurred,
so as to meet every case. Drawing the fires
when the water is out of sight must always
be a matter of more or less risk, as there is
a difficulty in determining how far and for
how long a time the furnace crowns have
been laid bare. If it is known that the
water has only just passed out of sight, say
from the sticking fast of the blow-out tap
when attempting to shut it, the fires may be
drawn with safety. But if an empty gauge-
glass has been mistaken for
a full one, and the boiler has
been worked on in this state f ■ —

for some time, the case will ( 1 ( -

be different. Again, there \Vto_

would be more risk in draw- ^-

ing the fires from a plain fur-
mace tube, or from one made of ordi¬
nary plates, than from one strengthened
•with encircling rings, and made of
ductile steel or of iron equal to Low-
moor or Bowling. Thus, it will be />
.seen, it is difficult to give precise in- ((|
:structions to suit all circumstances. x
A fire may be safely drawn in one
•case and not in another.”

16. In case of Safety-Valves Sticking.—
Should the safety-valve stick from any
cause, and the pressure of steam be near
the blowing-off point, ( 1 ) keep the engine
running, and if steam is taken off for any
purpose, open the valve ; (2) start the feed¬
pump ; (3) close the dampers ; (4) open the
furnace door; (5) if thought necessary,
damp down or choke the fire with wet
•ashes.

17. Priming. —In case of priming, close
the throttle-valve for a short time, find the
true level of the water, and open the cylin¬
der-cocks. If the water level is correct,
blow off a little occasionally and add fresh
water, but not too much at a time. Check
the draught to the boiler also, and damp
the fire somewhat. See that the feed-water
is not dirty or greasy. In boilers where the
steam space is small, great regularity of
firing and water supply is necessary. If
the priming is violent, stop the engine.
Open the cylinder-cocks occasionally. Some
of the compounds sold to remove incrusta¬
tion will cause priming. Priming may also
be caused by bad cir¬
culation, by an excess * a

of steam being drawn y j7

from the boiler, or by / /7 n 9

the introduction of / /

•oatmeal or similar
substances with the ij \

object of stopping /a.. . /

leaks. In case of vio- / vHsW / *
lent priming, the /

gauge-cocks will dis- yn jp y~

charge a mixture of
steam and water in-

stead of plain water. y

It should not be at- &

tempted to stop prim- 1 a a I 1

Figs. 20, 21.—Examples of

JhiAa f&M

ing by the introduction of oils, as is some¬
times done, as most of these develop fatty
acids, which are often highly injurious to
the boiler, and by mixing with the lime or
other incrustation prevent a proper contact
of the water with the boiler-plates; there
is therefore a much greater tendency to
burn.

18. Examine and Test Steam Exhaust .—
An experienced and careful attendant can
gather no little information as to the work¬
ing condition of his engine by attentively
listening to the pulsation of the steam ex¬
haust. If the piston, slide-valve, and pas¬
sages are in good order, the sound of the
exhaust will be regular and decisive. If the
piston is out of order, or the rings broken or
worn, the pulsation will be prolonged, ac¬
companied by a rumbling, groaning noise.
If the pulsation is prolonged, with a wheez¬
ing noise, probably something is wrong with
the slide-valve, and it may require adjusting
or re-bedding. In either of these cases
steam is wasting past the piston or slide-
valve, and should receive immediate atten¬
tion. To test for a leaky piston, put engine
on dead centre and listen to
the exhaust; should there be
an escape of steam the piston
or rings require attention, or

Fig. 22 .

L/m.

the cylinder may
Ruling and Compass Work. want re-boring. The

piston should be tried
at both ends of the

_ cylinder. If there is

—m—uub a simultaneous dis-

- charge of steam

_ through the pet-cocks

at both ends of the

- cylinder, you may be

sure the piston is
leaky. To test for leaky slide-valve, place
engine a little over half-stroke and turn on
steam ; if there is a rush of steam through
the exhaust the valve leaks. Steam may
also escape directly into the exhaust-pipe
through a leaky joint. A leaky piston may be
caused through the engine being out of lino.

caused througl

t. A leaky piston may be
engine being out of lino.

Fig. 23.

* See " Handbook for
Steam Users." M. Powis
Bale (Longmans & Co.).

JANUARY

YRAUMAG

Figs. 22,23.—Examples of Writing.

ARTISTIC LITHOGRAPHY.

BY MISS ADA J. ABRAHAM.

•o.-

Technical Work — More
— ^ about Stippling.

""™V \ Tints in Lines and Stars—Tints
___) j ] Shaded up from Solid —

- 'IJ Ball in Stipple Work—Ex-

— amples of Ruling—Tempkk-

ature of Stone — Finger-
Marks.

Recurring to the subject of stippling,
it may be said that Figs. 10 and 11
give very fair examples of shaded
stipple tints, worked in stars, and
Fig. 12 of tints worked in lines. It
)) must be observed that the darker the
/ tint, the closer and larger the dots,
and the lighter the tint, the finer and
more open the clots are, this being an in¬
fallible rule in stipple work. Fig. 13 is
another example of shaded lines, which the
student would do well to copy.

In a shaded tint where the darkest part
is perfectly solid (Figs. 14 and 15) the
student will find it impossible to shade it to
a light tint without filling in ; but the
better the dots are laid in in the first in-
stanceU the less work is subsequently re¬
quired. In an unimportant part of the
picture it is not necessary to spend so much
time in making a perfectly executed tint of
regular dots, as long as the necessary effect
of an even tint is produced. Fig. 15 is a
specimen of what would be required for a
good piece of shading, such as that on a
face, an arm, etc., and Fig. 16 that for ail
unimportant part of the picture, such as a
shadow thrown by a table. 'When the
student is able to do a ball like that which
is shown in Fig. 17, he may consider he
has crossed the 2 ,( >ns asinorum of stipple
work.

Only two examples of line work are
given (Figs. 18 and 19), as every different

subject requires a dif-
^ ferent treatment; and
M here the student’s

\ artistic knowledge
\ stands him in good
stead, as he will then
^ Oi understand not to put

\ V4. vvJv\ the same kind of work

* \ \ . in drawing a vase as

\ if he were drawing a

•s. carpet.

The above examples
of tinting are merely
a few specimens of
^ what is required in

■ m m | lithographic drawing

L/j 1. with regard to stipple.

r 1 ** w work, as each student

can only gain by his

Artistic Lithography.

[Work—June 27,1891.

own experience the various styles and tex¬
tures necessary for different kinds of work.
It being lound impossible to give many
specimens of ruling, using the compass,
lines drawn with the brush, writing, etc.,
Figs. 20 , 21 , 22, 23 must suffice at present
as a slight guide to the student as to what
will lie required from him in that direction;
but he must perfectly understand how
necessary it is to practise with the different
instruments before attempting any practical

•J.. Fig. io. —Shaded Tint .

S “ ars -

It will perhaps be thought that litho¬
graphy is made out to be more difficult than
it really is, but the reader must not forget
that good work is not easy to accomplish,
and cannot be done without a certain
amount of patience and perseverance, and
if the artist understands what is required
of him in starting lithography, he will
not be as disappointed as if he thinks

convenience, heat a fiat piece of iron and
hold it close over the stone for a short time,
taking care not to touch it.

Finger-marks on the stone are apt to roll
up in printing, and may appear as black
smears—in fact, leaning against the stone
might make it greasy, and so have the

wm

■ fa

r*

■H

.—Shaded Tint
in Lines.

g. 12 . —Shaded
Tint in Lines.

Fig. 11.—Shaded Tint in Stars

' ii 'niiinnyiliniin in n iff/.

..'" itjtfWfi . Illfinlljwilljllihtii ,

//// III (in III'I; lilt <ll III III I in lljp' 1.1.

Air it .7 V///////''/V/1
I'ii 11 lumjiil'/lllllluii' l 'llli/'iiirf . •,
Wnilli;ll‘ll,llllll / // ; ///^4*// V' 7 /} /// - ^ • fV. / •
'({[[</ in. H>ti 'ji'!li (m/y /////1 1 1/,i/ii‘lh HniA
•'' ffi i 1 in ih . iimilijjiiiii'lii tliiijj iii.'ii it'i, 1

./Sa mmm

A 1 IwwWiiiiiiitlilliiM wlfium/il

,•’ 'Up f II l , iiflllllilllllllllllltllll I ill III
i AJiiitiiuiiiiiitliu/iiitnihi\i.11ili/i
•Ml;, Iilimii/ih,lililliirnillni 1 llll
1 M •• V f I f /||Mirf/i; IIIIII ///4f///||#I| f I *//j.

Figs. 14, 15. —
Shaded Tints
having the Darkest
1 arts Solid.

ilhniii'iiii/nfll/i/nini

mxa

Fig. 18.—Speci¬
men of Line
Work.

\hMlllllliiiiliimiiih eh

msm

ib WIplf: 'iff'

mmm

iv < if* i

Fig. 19.—Specimen of Line Work.

work. For instance, he will find the bow
compass slip all over the stone, until he
obtains full control in holding it firmly on
one point, allowing the pen to glide easily
over the stone; the same applies to the
ruling pen, as it must be allowed to glide
over, and not be pressed on the stone;
and it will not be out of place here to ob¬
serve. that it is easier to join straight lines
to circles than vice verst 1 !. The brush will
1)0 sure to make a thicker line than is re¬
quired, until the student obtains a touch
delicate enough only to work on the point.

Fig. 17.—Shaded Ball in Stipple.

he can learn it in six, or even twelve,
months.

To proceed with the work, the artist must
remember never to work on a very cold
stone; it should be warmed at the fire before
beginning work for the day, especially if it
has been kept in a damp cellar, and the back
should be put next the fire in preference to
the front, as the heat will then draw the
dampness away from the drawing surface.
Should the stone be too large to move with

same effect ns if it had been diawn in
ink.

In practising tinting with the pen, it is
not necessary for the student to confine him¬
self entirely to one style of work in any one
subject, such as an arm or hand, for example.
It is, in fact, necessary, at times, to blend dots
in lines with those in stars. For instance,
when drawing an arm, in order to give force

Work—June 27,189L]

A Hanging Medicine Cupboard.

233

to the drawing, as there is no decided out¬
line, about three or four rows of dots in
lines should be drawn down the edge, the
last row being finer than the others to give
softness and roundness to the figure; this
would be gradually worked off into stars
towards the high lights, thus giving effec¬
tive drawing and shading in the one tint by
the judicious management of the dots. In
the same way in drawing a face, parts, such
as those under the eyebrows, round the
wing of the nose, the mouth and around
it, near the ear, etc., would all be drawn
with the dots in lines, in the various direc¬
tions of the features ; whereas the forehead,
cheeks, neck, etc., would be drawn in stars,
thus giving a certain amount of modelling,
and helping the shading by giving much
more character to the subject than if a flat
tint were laid equally all over the drawing
and then filled in, for however well it may
be modelled, the drawing would always
have a flat appearance—insipid, if I may use
that expression, and without character.

In filling in a tint, the student should not
look as closely at. his work as when he
lays in the dots in the first
instance, for if he does so, and
then regards it from a distance
of about a couple of feet, he
will, no doubt, be very sur¬
prised to see what a patchy
appearance his drawing has.

This is owing to the fact that
in looking so closely at his work
he fails to take in the general
effect; so if he looks closely at
his work, and is careful in lay¬
ing in the dots clearly and
evenly, and then fills it in from
a little distance, he cannot fail
to get a clear drawing and
evenness of texture. It is not
a bad plan to sit down to lay
in the dots and stand up to
finish it.

With regard to the student's
osition whilst at work, it is
etter for him to sit facing the
light for all such work as writ¬
ings, maps, etc.—in fact, that
class of work which appertains
to the draughtsman ; out for
artistic drawings and colour work, nothing
equals a side or, if possible, a top light. Let
the novice take any ordinary water-colour
sketch, and, facing the light, look down
upon it, and afterwards place it so that he
looks at it from a side light, he cannot fail
to see the difference that I mean. Naturally,
this would apply the same to copying from
it on stone, for it would be a great mistake
to sit facing the light to work on the stone,
and, having the copy on the right or left, be
continually turning round to look at it. It
is surprising what a different effect the
drawing has when held at a different angle
to the stone on which one is working.
Certainly, the best way is to have the draw¬
ing in front of you ; but should this be im¬
practicable through want of space, etc., the
artist should, at any rate, endeavour to so
arrange his copy that he looks at it as
nearly as possible full face— i.e., at right
angles, and not sideways. Some people can¬
not face the daylight when at work, and
many maintain that it is actually injurious
to the eyes to sit with the face to the light
day after day, such as regular office work
entails. Here is a case of “what is one
man’s meat," etc. On the whole, the best
advice I can give is this—secure the best
avai lable light for your work with the least
possible injury to the eyes.

A HANGING MEDICINE CUPBOARD,

BY B. R. CONDER.

Alternative Use for Cupboard—Dimensions—
Construction of Framework — Doors —
Decoration of Panels—Finishing—Cost
of Material.

Small cupboards are so generally used in
the present day in rooms of all kinds,
and are so generally useful, that many
may like to know how they may be easily
made.

The small article here described, though
primarily intended for a medicine cupboard,
can be easily adapted to answer a different
purpose. By substituting glass for wooden
panels to the doors, and lining the interior
with some suitable decorative material,
such as lincrusta, Japanese paper, or plush,
it might be converted into a handy recep¬
tacle for a few small curios and knick-
knacks.

Its dimensions are as follows Width,

2 ft.; depth, 8 in.; height of cupboard
proper, 10 in. \ extreme height in front (i.c., I

1

A Hanging Medicine Cupboard.

of uprights), 121 in.; at back, 22 in. This
is a handy size - ; but it can, of course, be
altered to meet individual requirements.

The framework of the cupboard, which
must first be prepared, consists of twelve
strips of wood J- in. square, four being
upright and eight horizontal. They are
mortised and tenoned together ; the tenons,
of course, being cut in the horizontal rails,
and the mortises in the uprights. It will
be obvious that these joints must be carried
only about £ in. through the uprights, and
that, therefore, the horizontal rails must be
about £ in. shorter than the extreme width
and depth 0 f the cupboard respectively ;
also that the joints must be cut as near the
outer edges of rails and uprights as practi¬
cable. It will be necessary at this stage,
and from time to time as the various parts
are got ready, to fit the work together, and
test it with the square.

Next prepare the cross-ties, shown in the
drawing, one above, the other below, the
cupboard at the back. They are to be let
into the back uprights from behind, the
joint used being the lap-dovetail, the con¬
struction of which has been clearly explained
in Work, Yol. IL, page 118.

The upper tie is 1£ in. wide and l in.
thick, which is also the thickness of the
uprights to which it has to be joined; these

joints must therefore be halved. The
height of this piece above the' cupboard is
sufficiently indicated by the drawing, and
is not material; a plain beading is cut on
its front edges. A very passable beading
may be easily contrived with a little care
and patience, by those who do not possess
beading planes or router, with a cutting
gauge, chisel, and glass-paper. The cross-tie
below the cupboard is £ in. thick, or less,
and 3 in. wide in its widest part; its lower
edge may be cut to some such shape as
shown with a frame saw, or failing that,
with a keyhole saw. The panels forming
the sides of the cupboard may now be got
ready. They are I in. thick, and fit in
grooves cut in the side rails and uprights.
The top and bottom next claim attention ;
they need not be more than I in. thick,
unless destined to carry more weight than
usually falls to the lot of such a small cup¬
board.

The top, which forms a handy shelf for
the display of a few small ornaments, is lap¬
dovetailed into the upper edges of the top
side rails. The bottom rests in rebates cut

on the. lower front and back
rails, and is secured to them
by a few small screws or brads
when finally fitted.

The ends of the uprights may
now be cut as shown, or other¬
wise finished off, the various
parts finally fitted together and
glued up, and a thin back
affixed. The back extends from
the lower rail to the upper
cross-tie, and thus the upper
part of it forms a narrow panel
above the cupboard. A small
beading is fitted round the in¬
side edges of the front, and
allowance must he made for
this in setting out the doors.
The styles and rails of the doors
are g in. thick and If in. wide,
with the exception of the fall¬
ing styles, which overlap, and
are therefore § in. wider. A
rebate of that width is cut on
the inner surface of the right-
hand and the outer surface of
the left-hand style, to allow for
their overlapping and shutting level. A
small beading is cut on the lock style.

The door frames are mortised together in
orthodox manner, but might be halved and
screwed from the inside by any preferring
that method. They must be either grooved
or rebated for the panels, which are in.
thick.

In small doors of this kind, rebat ing the
styles and rails and securing the panels by
headings, or simply by brads, is, perhaps,
the better plan, as it permits of the easy
removal of the panels at any subsequent
time without injury to the framing. The
appearance of the cupboard will bo much
improved if the panels are suitably deco¬
rated.

One very simple and effective method of
doing this is to coyer them with Japanese
gold leather paper. This is an expensive
material if bought in the ordinary way—by
the piece; but one of Liberty's Is. Cjd.
remnant bundles will afford sufficient for
decorating several small pieces of furniture.
This wrinkle I got from an early number
of Work, and take this opportunity of
acknowledging my indebtedness to the
writer of the article in which it appeared.

A stop will be necessary to prevent the
doors opening inwards, also some kind of
a bolt to keep the left-hand door closed. A

234

Qur Guide to Good Things.

[Work—June 27,1891.

very small block of wood glued or screwed
to the front of the bottom, where the doors
meet, acts as a stop ; and a very efficient
substitute for a bolt is provided by fastening
a small wooden button, with a screw upon
which it can be turned readily, but not
loosely, to the inner surface of the falling
style or top rail of the left door, about \ in.
from the top. When the door is closed this
button is turned, so that the part of it then
uppermost comes behind the top front rail
of the cupboard, and the door cannot then
be opened until it is turned down.

All now left to be done is to cut the key¬
hole, fix the lock, and hang the doors, and
the cupboard is complete. I have said
nothing about the wood to be used, as
almost any kind would do, provided it be
sound and dry. As a hint to those who
desire to produce their work as cheaply as
possible, without sacrificing good effect, I
may add, that a cupboard I made for myself
of good sound deal and enamel painted
looks very well, and cost for material,
including a good lock, less than 2s. 6d.

MEANS, MODES, AND 31ETH0DS.

How to tie a Painting Brush.

'.Many people who need a paint-brush, buy
one, and find that it is too long and limp to
work well. It needs tying. This is a diffi¬
culty to the inexperienced, and here is a
41 method ” of tying a brush.

Tig. 1.—Commencement of Process. Fig. 2.—The
Knot used to secure String. Fig. 3.—Mode
of laying Cord on starting to bind. Fig. 4.—
Completion.

First tie a piece of stout twine (twine like
that used for Nlacrame work will do well)
round the brush, leaving 6 in. or 7 in. at one
end, marked a in the sketch. Fig. 1 shows
the first tie. Fig. 2 shows the form of knot
used. The end a should be made to lie
along the hair of the brush, and tbe string
should be coiled round it and the hair of
the brush as many times as necessary.
"When enough has been wound around, the
•cord marked n may be bent back, drawn
dose, and a half knot made opposite the
first knot. Both cords may now be fixed
with small tacks to the stock or the handle
of the brush, and the superfluous string cut
off. The string need not be bound very
tightly, for either paint or water will make
it sufficiently tight for the purpose for which
it is intended. At any time part of the
string can be removed. B. A. B.

OUR GUIDE TO GOOD THINGS.

— -•<*•—

*•* Patentees, manufacturers, and dealers generally are re¬
quested to send prospectuses, bills, etc., of their speciali¬
ties in tools, machinery, and workshop appliances to the
Editor of Work for notice in “ Our Guide to Good
Things.” It is desirable that specimens should be sent
for examination and testing in all cases when this can be
done without inconvenience. Specimens thus received
will be returned at the earliest opportunity. It must be
understood that everything which is noticed , is noticed
on its merits only, and that , as it is in the power of any-
one who has a useful article for sale to obtain mention
of it in this department of WORK without charge, the
notices given partake in no way of the nature of adver¬
tisements.

37.—Practical Blacksmithing.

Some little time ago it fell to my lot to notice
VoL III. of a capital vade mecum , entitled, “ Prac¬
tical Blacksmithing,” by Mr. M. T. Richardson,
comprised in four volumes, and covering nearly
the whole range of blacksmithing, from the most
ordinary operation to some of the most complex
forgings. It is an American publication, but is
sold in London by Messrs. Kegan Paul, Trench,
Triibner & Co., Limited, Paternoster Square,
London, E.C., who will, I am sure, readily give
any applicant information as to the price at
which they supply it. Vol. I. gives the early
history of the trade, with shop plans and methods
of constructing chimneys and forges. Yol. II. is
devoted to a description and illustration of the
tools and appliances in use. Vol. III. dealt with
such tools as had not been considered in Yol. II.,
and contained a description of a great variety of
jobs of work. In Vol. IV. the last-named topic
has been continued and completed, and consider¬
able space has been devoted to the subjects of
cutting, bending, welding, and setting tires,
setting axles, resetting old springs, the temper¬
ing of tools, holts, nuts, etc., and the working
and welding of steel. The last chapter comprises
a set of tables, giving the weights and sizes of
various articles in steel and iron, used for the
most part by carriage and waggon builders, and
therefore of importance to all who are engaged in
this particular trade.

38. —Photographine.

have sent for inspection an Airedale Camera in
parts with finished brasswork, with a copy of
their latest price list. Although mention has
just been made of the Airedale Camera in parts,
it must not be supposed that the camera itself
is not supplied complete, and that it must of
necessity be purchased. It may also be bought
made up and finished, and some idea of its con¬
struction may be gathered from the accompany¬
ing illustration. The makers explain that the
camera “ has been designed to meet the require¬
ments of those who want a really well-made
practical and useful article at the lowest possible
cost. Although very light, weighing only
2| lbs., it is veiy rigid. The bellows, being at¬
tached to the front, prevent any cutting of the pic¬
ture.” It is a double extension camera, and is fitted
with rack and pinion. It also has a good leather
bellows; a leather handle, by which it may be
carried ; and a reversing and swing back. It is
made in half-plate and whole-plate sizes only.
The price of the former, with one double slide,
is £2 17s. 6d., extra slides being supplied at 9s.
each. The price of the whole-plate camera is
£3 7s. 6d., the cost of extra slides for this size
being 14s. For the price it seems to he well
made and well finished, and likely to prove a
useful article to those who buy and use it. The
same camera in parts—a decidedly new departure
for amateurs—is just sufficiently advanced in its
construction, and in such a state of finish, that
any amateur who is fairly well acquainted with
the working of a camera could easily complete it.
The woodwork consists of the body, ready dove¬
tailed ; the baseboard, clamped and ploughed

Watklnson & Co.’s Airedale Camera.

Some readers may like to try the compound
known as “ Photographine,” which is prepared
and supplied by Mr. J. Pawsey, 8, Catherine
Terrace, Seven Sisters Road, Tottenham, N.
He claims that by its use plates may he cleared
without injury to the film years after being
fixed, and that, by reason of its cheapness, it is
economical in its use. Further, he claims that it
hardens the film as well as clears the negative,
and that this is a most desirable feature in the
production of good pictures. Plates, too, that
are over-developed speedily assume their proper
density on being brought, it is said, in contact
with this bath. The following developer is
suggested for use :—For the soda solution, 3£ oz.
of soda, 1 oz. of glycerine, and 1 quart of boiling
water. For the pyro solution, 1 oz. of pyrogallic
acid, 20 drops of nitric acid, and $ oz. of water.
For use, take 1 oz. of water, to which has been
added 24 drops of the pyro solution; then add
1 oz. of the soda solution. After developing, well
wash the negative in clean water, and then place
it in the Photographine bath compound thus:
1 oz. of photographine, 4 oz. of boiling water,
and £ oz. of loaf sugar. This bath should be
mixed twelve hours before being used. This
solution will keep any length of time, but should
be renewed as soon as it has lost its original
colour—by turning black. Caution.—“ Negatives
treated thus print quicker and sharper than those
treated in the ordinary way.” The preparation
is sold in 1 oz. packets, 4£d. post free, or in 1 lb.
boxes at 6s., and 5 lb. boxes at £1 8s., carriage
paid. The photographer whom I asked to test
the Photographine sent as sample, says that it
will clear a negative very much like many other
agents, but that he fails to see its superiority or
any advantage in its use.

39.—The Airedale Camera in Parts.

Messrs. Watkinson & Co., Harrison Street, New
Briggate, Leeds, manufacturers of photographic
cameras and scientific and laboratory apparatus,

ready for rack and pinion; bellows frame, re¬
versing frame, ground glass frame, and extension
frame, all mitred, keyed, and glued; slide rails;
front with circular cut ready for lens; double
grooving for one slide and two shutters, clamped
and rabbeted. The brasswork necessary for com¬
pleting the camera includes rack and pinion, side
struts, milled screws, double hinges, ground glass
clips, reversing clips, box-board hinges, front bar,
hook, turn-buttons, extension rods, and guide
strips. In addition to this there are other
necessary parts, which are neither woodwork
nor brasswork, but which may ho described as
“ sundries.” These are the leather bellows,
handle and bridges, ground glass, zinc partition
with spring, side clips, and hinges; and in
addition to these the screws necessary for the
completion and putting together of the camera
and one slide. The camera in parts is supplied
in three different stages, as follows:—(1) The
woodwork, as mentioned in detail above, with
flat brasswork unfinished, but with all turned
work finished, at 35s. (2) With all the brasswork
highly finished and lacquered, 40s. (3) With

brasswork finished and lacquered, and one double
slide finished completely and ready for use, but
not polished, 45s. If a polished slide is desired,
an extra charge of 9d. is made. The Airedale
Camera in this form seems likely to meet the
wants of many amateurs who would like to be
able to say that they had made their own camera,
but who are not possessed of sufficient skill in
joinery and cabinet-making to do all the clamp¬
ing, ploughing, grooving, and rabbeting that is
required in the woodwork. To carry out these
operations, the amateur woodworker must not
only have acquired considerable proficiency in
his adopted art, but must have by him many
special tools which amateurs do not usually
have in stock. It is a difficult matter beyond
doubt to prepare all the parts, but to put the
parts together is comparatively easy.

The Editor,

Work—June 27, 1801. ]

Shop,

235

SHOP:

A Corner for Those who Want to Talk It.

• • Jn consequence of the gi'eat pressure upon the
“ Shop ” columns of Work. contHbutors are
requested to be brief and concise in all future
questions and replies.

In answering any of the “ Questions submitted to Corre¬
spondents," or in referring to anything that has appeared
in “ Shop," writers are requested to refer to the number
and page of number of Work in which the subject under
consideration appeared, and to give the heading of the
paragraph to which reference is made . and the initials
and place oj residence, or thenom-de-plume, of the writer
by whom the question has been asked or to whom a reply
has been already given. Answers cannot be given to
questions which do not bear on subjects that fairly come
within the scope of the Magazine.

I.—Letters from Correspondents.

Carriage Varnishing.— H. B. (Brighton) writes:
—*‘ln his well-written and practical instructions
to Barouche on the above subject (see page 123,
No. 112, Vol. IIL), and at the sixth line from the
bottom of column indicated, J. C. K., in writing
re the taking off of hind seat of Stanhope phceton,
advises that if the screws, by which it is fixed to
body, cannot be drawn by turn-screw (i.e. f screw¬
driver), and are set fast by rust, the heads of
such screws need to be chipped off. etc. Permit
me to point out that this method should only be
resorted to as the very last in a severe extremity.
Reason—because it is twenty chances to one that
in so doing the scat end is almost sure to be either
split or severely damaged, sometimes even requir¬
ing the ends or bars to be entirely renewed. Hav¬
ing had all kinds of ‘jobbing,’ and many years'
ractice in all the endless ramifications of that
ranch, I have had to wrestle with hundreds of such
screws, and have very seldom failed in withdraw¬
ing them, and rarely with any damage to the parts
effected. I proceed as follows: Finding by the
turn-screw that the screws will not move, in the
case of the seat named, I should procure a piece of
round iron rod of such a size that, when placed end
on, the rod is a trifle smaller than the head of
screw. The rod may be 18 in. long, or sufficient to
give good 4 cold ’ hand hold at one end when the
other end has been heated. Then have one end
heated to a very bright red, and hold it, end on. to
head of fast screw, and in a minute or two that
screw can be easily withdrawn with the turn-
screw. For a number of such I should have two
rods to save time—one getting hot while using the
other. The wood immediately round the screw
may get just a little singed, but that is of no conse¬
quence, as compared with a split seat end ; besides,
the saving of time is also a most important item.
And while writing of hot irons. I may mention that
where screws become rusted in the plates, etc., of
under carriage work, they can be loosened same
way by holding hot tire bars over three or four at
a heat, and again save much valuable time. By
these means I have drawn screws which nothing
else could be made to move, and I have neither
broken a blood-vessel, raised a blister, or turned
a hair. Another most useful application of the hot
iron can be effected where, through accident or
carelessness, bruises may have been made in new,
and even in some places in old. bodies. Thus,
suppose a new panel on one of the sharp corner
mouldings has received a blow, causing a very un¬
sightly indentation, proceed in this wise: If bare
wood, well soak the part affected with clean cold
water for an hour or two, according to extent of
damage ; then get a piece of tire bar wider than
the bruise, heat to a dull red, and hold near enough
so as not to scorch the wood, and as the iron gets
cooler approach it nearer. When cool enough not
to burn, lay it right on the bruise, and it will, if
properly and carefully done, draw the bruised place
out level with its surroundings, when, if glass-
papered off, it will never show; but if left in its
damaged state and ‘stopped’ up in the painting,
the ‘ stopper ’ is always liable to fall out and spoil
the whole job. I trust J. C. K. will not feel offended
at my intrusion upon his ground. Should you, Mr.
Editor, think it likely, please do not print this in
1 ours,' if indeed you consider it worth inserting at
All. I am an old Polytechnic student, and had the
good fortune to sit for four or more sessions under
that prince of technical teachers, Mr. John Robert¬
son, and I feel an old boy’s interest in all these
matters; and having a great desire to see coach¬
building in all branches more fully developed in
Work, shall always do all I can to further it.

Rate of Circular Saws.— Erratum.— A. R.
(Scoy'ricr) writes that the letter headed “A Wood¬
worker ” (see page 187, Vol. III.) emanates from him,
and is in reply to A Woodworker’s letter on page
"91, Yol. III.

Petroleum Engines. — C. J. C. (No Address)
writes “ If J. II. I)., in Work of May 2nd, 1891,
refers to the ‘Priestman* petroleum engine, in
the second part of his explanation of oil-engines, I
must respectfully correct him on one point, viz.,
that the impulses occur at such comparatively long
intervals that they require much heavier fly-wheels,
in proportion to their power, than steam-engines.
1^0 doubt the oil-engines require heavy fly-wheels,
and so do gas engines, but the ‘Priestman’ oil-
cngine gets an impulse, certain, every fourth stroke
of the piston, or every alternate revolution of the
ny-wheel. On account of its steady running, it is
auinittea to be one of the very best motors for

electric lighting, which would hardly be the case if
the impulses occurred at long intervals. J. H. D.
appears to be correct in his explanation of the
mixing of air. vaporising, etc., but the bichromate
battery is not of such magnitude as he implies. If

1 am mistaken, and J. H. D. did not refer to the
4 Priestman,’ I should esteem it a favour if he would
inform me, through this paper, what oil-engine he
referred to, as I am not aware of any other reliable
except the ‘ Priestman.’ **

n.—Q uestions Answered by Editor and Staff.

Saw Hammering.— New Zealand asks for
some plain directions as to saw hammering. The
following information will be practical and theo¬
retical. I give two or three very rough sketches, so
that New Zealand may clearly understand me.
Fig. 1 represents a saw-plate tight at the centre;
when placing the straight-edge on the plate it shows
it to be convex, and if you try to push the centre
down it will spring back again; to get the plate
flat or true, the tight place should be struck on both
sides of the plate with the dog-head hammer. Fig.

2 represents a saw tight at and near the rim but
loose at the centre; in this case the hammering
should be done near the rim, or where it is tight, and
with the dog-head hammer. It will be seen that this
plate shows itself concave; if the plate is reversed

and the straight-edge placed on it, the centre drops
with the least touch precisely the same as before,
showing that the centre is loose. Fig. 3 represents a
circular saw loose or slack at l. To take this out, the
plate should be struck with the cross-faced hammer,
as at c c, and with the dog-head, as at h h, or it may
be struck all round with the dog-head hammer.
By your statement of your 12 in. saw it must have
been stretched on the outside, or rather at the rim,
and pinched or twisted.* I have often seen saws in
this condition, but have never got them perfectly
true, but if put into the hands of a man who has
learned the whole art of hammering they may be
made perfectly true. The way I proceed with a
saw in like condition is to hammer all round the
plate on both sides with the dog-head hammer, as at
t, in Fig. 3, then with the cross-faced hammer all
round the plate, as at B, and I have in most cases
got the plate true enough to do good work.—A. R.

Bicycle Wheels.— H. B. (Ewell ).—Get a shilling
bottle of cement for mending cuts and splicing tyres
at any cycle warehouse. Make the spliced surfaces
very clean, or cut them anew with a sharp knife
dipped in water. Get a bottle of Snell & Brown’s
Octopus cement. Smear both the splicing surfaces,
and let stand for two or three hours before sticking
together ; then place the splices evenly and press
together, and it will at once be ready for use on the
wheel. With Lucas’s cement you smear the splices
and stick together at once, but the tire snould
stand for an hour or two before putting it on the
wheel or using.—A. S. P.

Bicycle Plating.-F. S. (Bristol ).-There is no
stuff that can be put on to serve for plating. Send
the parts to be piated to a regular nickel-plater’s.

You do not require to do anything with them in the
way of preparation, except perhaps removing paint.
They will prepare the articles lor L^e bath them¬
Painting on Silk, etc. -Silk Banner.—B efore
painting or gilding, so much of the space as is to be
covered, and sliyhtly beyond its outline, must be
sized. This is to stop absorption, and to prevent
the oil from running. A preparation for the purpose
is sold at artists’ colour shops, or may be made by
dissolving isinglass in water or by boiling down
cuttings of parchment. For gilding or silvering,
oil gold size can be used on this ground ; and for
painting, ordinary tube oil colours. To prevent
cracking, care must be taken not to lay on the
colour too thickly, but to thin it down well with
turps. It is better to attain the desired depth of
colour by two thin coats than by one thick one. As
regards varnish: if the colours are found to dry
equally dead throughout, varnishing becomes
simply a question of taste. Some prefer t he dead
painting, which shows equally in all lights. But
should the colours dry dead in some parts and
bright in others, varnishing becomes necessary to
glaze them all alike. Some mix a little varnish
with their colours, and thus get a sullicicnt gluze
throughout.—S. W.

Incubator.— H. II. Lindon (Hif/hcr Bcbinylon).
—You are, unfortunately, not the only one who has
found the same difficulty with the machine de¬
scribed in No. 89, Vol. II. You certainly will not
get 104 J in the egg drawer with the tank heat only
116°. The remedy therefore is: use more heat— a
larger burner—although I must say a burner taking
a 24 in. wick ought, in my opinion, to be sufficient.
Roughly speaking, tank heat should be almost
double that required in the egg drawer. Turning
to the article in question, I find a case measuring
16 in. by 16 in. outside is recommended, made of 2 in.
stuff, and a boiler 15 in. by 15 in. How the latter
can be fitted into the case, besides leaving room for
packing, is a poser. In my own experience with a
16-egg hot-water machine, I found 2 in. of sawdust
packing round and above boiler, and round egg
drawer also, to be about right, and could, with a
burner taking a 2 in. flat wick, get 120' in egg
drawer. Judging from this, it seems to me that
your machine needs padding to keep the heat in, in
which case it would hold only about sixteen to
twenty eggs, instead of thirty. This meaning a lot
of trouble, I would advise you to put your machine
away for the present, and await the appearance of
my article on a Hot Air Incubator, to which you
may be able to adapt your present case without
much alteration, ami which, I am sure, will give
you satisfaction.— Leghorn.

Incubator. — Incubator. — Why a zinc tank
should become eaten through and leak after twelve
days’use is a mystery I should like solved. What
zinc did you use—new or old ? What did you use as
a flux for soldering? and did you take care to wash
off all the surplus fluid? If killed or unkilled spirits
(so called) were used, and the joints left unwashed
after solclering, it would account for a little, or
perhaps all, or the trouble. If you took this pre¬
caution, the only solution of the matter lies in the
fact that some powerful corrosive must have, by
some means, been introduced into the tank. Pure
rain water certainly cannot be answerable for it. so
I can only conclude that it became contaminated
before use. For the future, use ordinary fresh
water. The small amount of lime it contains will
make no difference. Your second experience is
equally strange, and I can offer no explanation why
a tinned iron tank should absorb more heat than a
zinc one, unless your iron is very much stouter than
the zinc. The only remedy I can suggest is to
reduce size of tank, and use more packing.—
Leghorn.

Bird-Cages.— Byker.—T he articles on the above
appeared in No. 51. Other small hints on the con¬
struction are given in “ Shop.”

4 H.-P. Engine.— G. P. (pambci'wcll).— Article?
are not run on in consecutive numbers of Work,
but every series of articles is completed in tho
volume.

Fretwork Machine.— J. J. (Fenton ).—Consult
the Indexes of Work, Vols. I. and II. Much has
already appeared upon Fretwork Machines.

Making Lantern Condensers and Objec¬
tives.— E. R. N. (Forest Gate) and others.—Head
reply to F. J. D. (Stotcc Nexoinptoti). on page 219. and
write again should any diiliculty arise.—C. A. P.

Brooklet.— Admirer of “Work.”— If you can
get some strong blue clay, and make it into a
uddle, and lay the bed of the stream 6 in. thick. I
0 not think many worms will get through. The
puddled clay must be carefully laid, especially at
the joins, which should be cut on each side with a
4 in. tool, the cuts filled with water, and well
kneaded with a pair of heavy boots till in one mass.
As an additional precaution, before laying on the
puddled clay, cover the surface with slaked lime or
soot. The clay should be pure and tough, and free
from any admixture of stones, loam, or gravel. You
will require about thirty-five cubic yards of clay if
it is required the full length. If you cannot procure
clay ot this nature, lav a foundation of broken
stones, 3 in. or 4 in. thick, and cover this with
cement concrete 24 in. thick, formed of five parts of
crushed bricks or limestone and one part of Port¬
land cement. Lay it in lengths of 6 ft., having
boards laid to the proper shape at each end. In
laying miss every alternate length, and when these
• are set fill in the spaces left, levelling them to the

236

Shop.

[Work—June 27,1891.

work already done. When the concrete is laid in
this,manner, it is not so liable to crack as if laid
straight on. 'Hie foundation should be well beaten
down before laying on the concrete.—M.

Bookcase and Writing-Desk.—A mbigitur.--
There are several varieties of bookcase, the lower
portions of which can be immediately transformed
into writing-desk, exposing pigeon-holes. The article
1 have designed follows the usual run of such things,
with the exception that I have introduced one or
two new, and I think serviceable, features. It is
advisabletomakeit in t wo carcases screwed together.
Of the top carcase, nothing further need be said
than that sufficient instructions applicable thereto
have appeared in past numbers. In the lower car¬
case there is a small bottom cupboard and a set of
pigeon-holes enclosed by a flap-door, the latter being
used as a writing-desk. To facilitate its use as such,
it is intended that a bracket be hinged to the inside
surface of each sideboard. Bookcases arc generally
made 18 in. deep from the wall. It will be seen,
therefore, that if the front of the pigeon-holes are
flush with the front of the job, difficulty would be

Bookcase and Writing-Desk.

experienced in obtaining any papers which happened
to be far buck in them. To avoid this, the front of
pigeon-holes is usually some distance back, the
result frequently being that ihc space in front of
them is comparatively useless, liy adopting my
suggestion, all space will be utilised. Fit pigeon¬
holes as shown, and in back part of each sideboard
out hole to admit a set of compartments to move
inwards and outwards drawer-wise, running on
board to which front, flap is hinged. It would be a
handy course to take. also, to have a thin leather-
covered board hinged at the back to the top surface
of the writing-flap, with the ends closed in with
loose material to form a receptacle for odd papers.
For suitable details of construction, read Mr. Adam¬
son’s “Some Lessons from an Old Bureau.” and
other articles. Height of bottom carcase from floor.
3 ft. 8 in. ; width of writing-flap. 12 in.; width of
job, 3 ft. 0 in. Study dimensions a little, however.
-J. S.

Batteries for Working Electro-Motors.—R.

C. {MamieId). —The colls of a battery to work an
electro-motor should be large, because a large
volume of current is needed to drive the machine,
and this can only he safely taken from cells having
a large capacity for furnishing a volume of current.
Each cell should hold not less than one quart of
liquid when the plates arc immersed, but will be
more efficient if made to hold half a gallon of
liquid. The plates should lie as large as the
capacity of the cell, because large plates offer less
resistance, than small plates. In single fluid
chromic acid or bichromate cells, two plates of
carbon should have one plate of zinc between them
in each cell. Large salt jars, pickle jars, or pickle
bottles make, very good single fluid cells. The
charge for these is made up of 1 lb. of chromic acid
and 2 ozs. of chlorate of potash dissolved in one
quart of water, to which must be added, drop by
drop, 7 fluid o/.s. of sulphuric acid. 'flic zinc
must be well amalgamated, and should be thick.
A good arrangement for the plates is shown on page
3(>, Vol. III., of Work. The double fluid chromic
acid battery, with dilute sulphuric acid to excite
the zinc, and also the Bunsen battery, of similar
construction, arc bot h suitable for working electro¬
motors. See also reply to Mac, p. 93, Vol. III., of
Work.—G. E. B.

Couch.— J. N. {Cork ).—A couch or lounge con¬
structed like sketch would simply require framing
together like a table frame. The legs should be
turned out of 4 in. hard wood, and two of them kept
about 4 in. longer than the others on the square; and
the scrolls, which are made of 1$ in. hard wood, are
halved and screwed on to the squares. The rails
across the scrolls are grooved in about £ in. deep, and
nailed from the outside. The back can be made
first, and a stump at the end is framed into the seat
rail, into which two flat rails are fitted to receive
the turned spindles: the bottom one to be tenoned
into the stump at one end and halved on to the
scroll at the other endjand screwed; the top one to go

on to the stump with a good 1 in. pin and halved
into the scroll at the other end; this one receives
the stuffing, and should be about 2} in. wide. It
will be seen in sketch that a middle rail or
stretcher is put in to give strength; if the couch is
short it will not be needed. Sizes: 4 ft. 6 in. long
on frame, 20 in. wide ; from bottom of leg to top of
seat rail, 14 in.; height from floor to top of scroll,
2 ft. 8 in.; height of back from floor, 2 ft. 3 in. This
is the size of a very short couch ; you must use your
own discretion about length, etc., as sizes vary to
suit circumstances.—H. H.

Case for American Clock.— J. W. {Kendal).—
I will leave you to decide upon the dimensions,
thicknesses, etc. You cannot go far wrong in so
small an article. As you are going to use a oattery
in addition to the small American clock, I advise
you to place the former within the case, underneath
the clock, if such a position is not unsuitable.
Have a solid board, with a piece half circular in
shape cut from it at the top, screwed within the
case at the back to assist in supporting the clock.
In the front of the case fix a similar piece, but let
it be merely a frame, as in Fig. 2, to permit of the
introduction of the battery, etc. You could, how¬
ever, hang the clock within the interior by means
of the ring above it. Fig. 2 explains the construc¬
tion. It is an upright section. Two sides will be
joined to a moulded top board, the bottom edges of
them being rebated over stout plinth boards, the
latter being mitred and screwed. A bottom board
will be joined into the plinth pieces as shown. The
back board should fit into rebates on those
parts which it comes in contact with. The door
can fit within the sides, or merely be hinged over
their edges, as shown in Fig. 1; and it is an optional

Fig. 1. Fig. 2.

American Clock. Fig. 1.—The Case. Fig. 2.—

Section of Case.

matter whether it is mitred or mortised and
tenoned together. Rebate it to receive the glass,
which should be left clear in the upper half to ex¬
pose the clock face, and painted upon the lower
portion. (See indexes for articles on glass painting,
recently published in Work.) The pediment will
be merely glued and screwed to the carcase. Small
brackets at the sides will be found useful and orna¬
mental. In Vol. I. there appeared a design and
copious details of a very pretty clock case in wood :
see it for yourself if you do not already possess it
—J. S.

Aphengescope.— Well - Wisher.— The aphen-
gescope, megascope, or opaque lantern, as it is
sometimes called, is a very interesting optical
instrument used for the purpose of projecting en¬
larged images of opaque objects upon a lantern
screen. The aphengescope, as illustrated in Figs. 1
and 4, is a sort of angular box made to fit on to the
draw tube of the slide stage of an ordinary optical
lantern in place of the objective, which is removed,
and screwed into a flange attached to the front of
the instrument, the object to be illuminated being
placed in the body of the aphengescope facing the
aperture by which the instrument is attached to the
lantern. On the lantern being lighted, all the light
emitted by the iet is concentrated full on the object
by the condenser, and the achromatic lens in turn
collects these rays and projects the image upon the
screen in the usual manner, the lanterns, on account
of the formation of the instrument, being placed with
their backs towards the screen. The sole require¬
ment of an aphengescope may be said to be: plenty of
illumination, no matter from what direction it comes,
so long as it is sufficiently powerful to brilliantly
illuminate the object to be exhibited. As the loss of
light by reflection is so great, the instrument will be
found to be almost useless for use with an ordinary
oil lantern, and even a single limelight jet is barely
sufficient to give a disc of a larger diameter than
about three or four feet, but by means of the double
form of aphengescope shown in Figs. 2 and 3, and a

Fig-. 3. Fig. -1

Aphengescope. Figs. 1 and 2.—Plan of Interior
of Single and Double Aphengescope. Fig. 3.
—Appearance of Double Aphengescope when
complete, showing Doors at Back. Fig. 4.—
Appearance of Single Aphengescope, with one
Door shut.

biunial lantern, which will take apart , it is possible
to show a well-lighted disc of about.six or seven feet
in diameter. The double aphengescope, which is of
a slightly different form 10 the one previously de¬
scribed, is a wood or metal box. hexagonal in shape,
and provided with circular apertures in three of its
1 sides. A couple of these holes receive the lights
; from two lanterns, the objectives of which have
been removed, and the third aperture, which
occupies a central position between the other two
at the front of the instrument, is provided with a
metal flange to receive the objective from one of
the lanterns, the objects to be exhibited being placed
against the side of the box opposite, to the lens. The
construction of the double aphengescope is clearly
shown in Fig. 2, in which it will be seen that the
object placed at a is strongly illuminated by the
light, from the two lanterns, b and c, which arc thus
brought close together with their heads toward the
screen, and a lantern objective is then screwed on to
the front of the instrument in the same manner as if
it was an ordinary lantern. Two doors, d and E.are
so hinged to either side of the. back that when one is
open the other is shut; it will also be found an ad¬
vantage to have the top and bottom of each door
fitted with a narrow groove on the inside, as that
will serve as a means of attachment for cartes-de-
visite, allowing one to be slid into the grooves ready
to be shown whilst the other is being exhibited.
The dimensions of the instrument are immaterial so
long as the principle is retained. You can therefore
construct one of either form described above of
suitable dimensions according to the objects you
intend exhibiting; a useful size is one having the
six sides about eight inches square. You can em¬
ploy wood or metal in the construction of tins
instrument, but I should strongly advise you to
make the body of good sound dry mahogany if you
are a good hand at woodwork, lhe sides are
nailed and glued to the base, which is formed of a
piece of sound wood cut to the plan of Figs. 1 and 2.
If formed of wood, you may with advantage fit and
hinge a metal lid to open up towards the front,
cutting the metal of a sufficient size to allow or a
half-inch rim. A couple of narrow rings of brass
tubing of sufficient size to just slip on to the draw
tubes of the lantern fronts may be fitted into the

Work—June 27,1891.]

Shop,

237

the screws d, i>; a r are then adjlisted, the nut E
firmly fixed, clamping the forked sides of the bracket
c upon the plates a and 13 . The. appliance is very
quickly put in position, and as quickly removed.
The plates a, b, are of iron, case-hardened. The
travelling backstay is usually made to fix upon the
saddle, as this one does on the fixed slide-rest; it is
generally made to take two wooden dies, by means
of which the work is steadied ; of course, wood does
not mark or scratch the work, but then the wood
dies must be made and adjusted.—F. A. M.

Paper Staining. — Down. — Paper - stainers'
colours are prepared much after the way of
decorators' distemper. The firms purchase their
colours in dry powder form—blue, red, yellow, etc.,
of varying degrees of purity and brightness. Whit¬
ing of a tine quality forms the body for the bulk of
paperhangings, excepting, of course, sanitaries and
so-called washable papers. Head the chapter on
Distemper in “ Plain and Decorative House Paint¬
ing," Vol. I.-F. P.

Varnish.— J. B. (Burham). — Varnish prepared
from shellac and methylated spirit, or of similar
nature, such as French polishers use, is about the
only variety that can be successfully made by the
individual worker. If your query refers to painters’
copal-oil varnish, you may at once dismiss the
notion of making it from your mind.—F. P.

Painting Bird Cage. — Bird Fancier.—T he
reason of the enamel paints you have used on the
inside of bird cages not drying is probably duo to
greasiness of the cage, or the enamel may be stale,
or else you have put too much on, and it is only
surface-dry, and not hard throughout. I would
advise—assuming they are wire and metal cages—
that you give a first coating of flatting paint made
with white lead, or zinc white, and diluted to
working consistency with two parts turns to one of
Japan gold size. This will form a good ground or
4 ‘key "for enamel, and if it docs not then harden,
the enamel is at fault. Ordinary patent 9izc is the
cheapest thing to prepare wood for staining with.
It raises the grain of the wood slightly, but answers
well for all common staining, and prevents the
sappy parts becoming darker than tho remainder.
If best effects are wanted, varnish or Japan gold
size may be used instead of size before oil stain-
iug.-F. P.

Colouring Kitchen.— D. P. V. {London, S.E.).
—Ordinary wall colouring or distemper is prepared
from size and whiting; the addition of dry pow¬
dered pigments gives the tints. For yellow, or
rather ouli’, wall colour, soak H lbs. of whiting in
sufficient water to slacken it, putting tho whiting
into the water. Pour off superfluous fluid, and
add tho colouring powder—Venetian red for pinks,
lime blue for grey or light blue, and ocliro for buff.
These used separately, or in mixtures, will give a
groat variety of tints for common purposes. Ilaving
well mixed in the colouring, try a little by drying
on paper, and when the desired tint is obtained,
add to the above four pounds of warm patent size,
or about one pound of glue properly dissolved. Before
following these directions, obtain the new circular,
etc., ofAlabastinc, from t lie Church Manufacturing
Company, 127, Pomeroy Street, S.K.—F. P.

Bicycle Wheel.— Parallax.— (I) The wheel is
out of truth, and requires to be trued up. If the
8poke9 are direct, procure a spoke grip, costing
about Is. 6d. ; if laced or tangent, procure a nipple
key, costing Is. Revolve the wheel, holding a piece
of chalk at the side of the rim. The rim
• will touch the chalk at the parts out of
Q truth. Tighten all the spokes on the
ri s* opposite side of the chalk marks if they

-v are loose. If they are tight, slacken all

the spokes on the side of tho chalk
■jT marks. Wipe off the chalk with a rag,

and revolve wheel again, letting the
untrue parts touch the chalk as before.
Continue slackening spokes at tlie marks
on the chalk side, and tightening on the
opposite side. If you arc not equal to
performing this bit of work, send the

3 . machine out to a qualified repairer. ( 2 )
Cement for fastening tires can be bought
at the cycle shop for 9d. to Is. per pound,
or in 6a. boxes, so that it is not worth

_ anybody’s while making it, even though

I he knew how.—A. S. P.

Picture Cords. — T. \\ . M. (Burs-
! ft) Icm). — The plan sent us, so far as wc
can see, is novel and useful, us well as
ingenious, and certainly worth patent-

then two little pieces of steel would be made like
Fig. 6, about li in. long, and a ft in. screw (b. Fig.
7) provided to fix them. The view at Fig. 7 will
suffice, instead of further description; the first 2 or
3 inches of the work are turned without any
steadying appliance; then the screw (b) is put into
the end of the rest, the little plate9 with their
V-notches slipped into it. clasped by the fingers into
the turned part, the screw fixed, and all is ready to
turn 2 or 3 inches more. Thus far we have dealt

apertures cut in the woodwork at b and c, and then
secured to the inner edge of the woodwork by
means of nails or screws driven through holes
punched or drilled in the metal. The door should
be of wood, furnished with grooves at the top and
bottom for the reception of cards as before de¬
scribed. For the objective, what is required is a
lens of fairly long focus and large diameter, in order
that it may pass plenty of light. The most suitable
lens for this purpose will De a half-plate photo¬
grapher's portrait combination. If your lantern, or
lanterns, are fitted with ordinary achromatic com¬
binations, one of these will be found to answer very
well, but not so well as a half-plate portrait lens,
for the reason above stated. To arrange the double
form of instrument ready for use, the objectives are
first removed from both the lanterns, which are
then placed with their backs towards the screen.
The aphengcscope is now made to slide on to the
draw tubes of the two lantern fronts by means of
the couple of brass collars, after which one of the
lantern objectives should be screwed on to the
flange attached to the front of the instrument. If
the photograph or other object to be shown by the
reflected light emitted by the jet is placed against
the back of the instrument immediately behind the
objectives, and the lantern is lit up, the light
emitted by the jets will illuminate the object, which
is then projected by the lens in an enlarged form
upon the screen, and instead of a transparent
picture being shown upon the screen, we get a
brilliantly illuminated representation of some solid,
and perhaps moving, object. When any diagrams,
drawings, or cartes-ae-visite, are being shown, they
are simply slipped into the grooved rails at the top
and bottom of the two doors at the back of the
instrument, and by this means one picture can be
shown whilst another is being put in position upon
the other door ready to take the place of the first.
Other objects are either held in the hand of the
operator, or placed upon the floor of the instrument.
The objectives will, of course, require focussing in
the usual manner. The aphengescope will be found
very useful to microscopists, who will thus be en¬
abled to show upon the screen various opaque
objects which it would be impossible to exhibit by
ordinary means. The works of a watch, coins
and medals, sections of various kinds of fruit,
shells, shell fish, moths, butterflies, minerals, and, in
short, anything that cannot be photographed, or
which should be shown in its natural colours, will
form a suitable subject for exhibition by means of
the aphengescope.—C. A. P.

Backstay.—R. W. M. (Co. Kildare ).—To pre¬
vent work from chattering when thin and turned
between centres, you require what is called a
backstay: these are of two kinds, the fixed and
the travelling, which latter moves along with the
tool, whilst the first is fixed to the bed, and is
moved along, as you suppose, 44 as work proceeds.”
As I think the backstay has not been mentioned
before in Work, and as you will be able very easily
to fit up for yourself this useful attachment, I will
describe one or two kinds of fixed stays. To steady
the work when turning ramrods, I believe the
turner uses nothing but the fingers of his left
hand; I have never seen this done, and could not
do it myself, but I can fancy it would be possible.
Tho next simplest way is to make a notch in a bit of
board like Fig. 1, and fix it in between the shears
with wedges. You see it is a very simple matter
when all you require is to steady a long piece of
wood, such as a wicket, etc. The wood smokes and

with fixed backstays, which are secured to the bed;
but you have a slide-rest, and would probably like
to know how to fit one into the slide-rest itself, so
that it may hold the work close up to the tool. This
will be still ajfcred stay, as it does not follow with
the tool, keeping the same distance from it, but is
fixed to the lower slide of a slide-rest, and not upon
a moving saddle as on a slide lathe. Figs. 8 and 9
show a side and back view of a slide-rest backstay
that has just been made to my design by Mr. Chas.
Taylor, of Bartholomew Street, Birmingham ; it fits
one of his 3iin. slide rests, and I have put into Fig. 8
a few lines to represent a slide-rest, just to show
how the backstay fits on. Here we have the same
two notched plates (a and b), but as we are now
dealing with metal turning they will require holding
very firmly: 0 c is a casting which slips into the
cross-slide of the rest, and is secured by pinching

Wl

• f

1 // 1

1 yA

JjU

s li

i) • J. B. W. (Sa
); Investor ; J

B. C. E. c Birmingham ); S. L. C.

fly-wheel of a steam, gas, or other engine used in
driving machinery. In this case the wheel revolves
with equal velocity over all its circumference, but
the moment this wheel and its axle and bearing are
caused to travel along a surface, another set of
conditions come into play which did not exist in the
former case, and then a compound movement takes
place. First the wheel or shaft, or axle and bear¬
ing, travel along a surface, and whilst the axle and
bearing travel in a line parallel to that surface over
a distance equal to the circumference of the wheel,
a point in the revolving wheel is describing, by the
motion of its circumference, a curved line which is
longer than the path travelled by the axle and
bearing. Therefore, it must follow that to travel
the same distance in the same time, a spot on the
wheel must have travelled faster than the axle
and bearing, to have described the curve which is
a longer distance than the axle and bearing travel,
and come again to the similar spot over the surface
from which it started, in the same time. In order
that this may be easily seen, we have appended the
following diagram, a little study of which will
make this clear and apparent to anyone. In this
diagram the cycloidal path of a given point on the
circumference of the wheel, starting from the
surface on which it rests until it comes again over
a point on the surface from which it started, may
be readily seen, and if a model wheel be made
of, say, G in. in diameter, and a piece of wood
or board of, say, 2 ft. long be used as the surface on
and along which it is rolled, it will be seen and
proved that a complete revolution of the wheel
will bring the point on the wheel, which was over
the surface at starting, over another point of the
surface at a distance equal to the circumference of
the wheel from the point where it was when it
started, but that to get there it must have travelled
along the curved line, which is always longer than
a straight line between two given points, at a
faster rate to do a longer distance m the same
time. In the diagram, the line a represents the

Cycloidal Curve.

distance over which the wheel ha9 to travel, the
axle moving from e to f on the dotted line. The
dotted wheel shows the position of the spot d on its
circumference at starting; c c shows the curved
path of the spots travelled by it until it comes to a
similar position on the surface at d, having tra¬
velled from left to right, as shown by the arrow ;
n shows the position of the axle, and b' that of the
wheel, when they have completed one-half of their
journey, the spot D being now at the top of the
wheel, having ascended the rising half of the
curve. As it goes on. it describes the falling curve
to d , whore it again resumes the same position
in regard to the surface as it had at starting, and so
long as the wheel travels, so this spot will always
continue to perform the same thing. Anyone who
has watched the wheel of a hansom cab when
at speed, can hardly have failed to notice how the
centrifugal force throws the mud and dirt from the
top, and not the bottom, of the wheel, which could
not be the case if the lower part travelled with
equal velocity. The formula for the diagram is
as followsLength of the base line a=3H159b 2 ;
b 2 the generating circle = *31831 a ; length of curve
C c=4’B' J .—C. K.

Polish Reviver.— A. E. S. (London ).—I am
always chary about recommending to inexperienced
hands any reviver containing methylated spirits or
naphtha. I can well recall to mind ten years ago
selling a bottle of reviver, the chief ingredient of
which was spirits; my customer had a valuable
piano, on which she first tried her ’prentice hand,
thinking that the more liberally she used the re¬
viver the better the results would be. Alas! thi9
mistaken idea nearly spoiled, instead of improved,
the polish. This incident, though it found me a
day’s work to rectify the damage, etc., serves to
show that, though experienced hands can use such
revivers with advantage, it is well to warn the in¬
experienced to use anything containing spirits with
caution, and I strongly recommend using the spirits
in the finishing rather than the cleaning stage, as in
the following recipe, which I have used almost daily
for the last four years—so giving a fair trial, and for
the purpose you name : viz., "keeping your recently
polished bookcase in a bright and fresh condition
and which will, I trust, do all you might desire.
Reviver: \ pint lime-water, i pint linseed oil, ^ pint
sweet oil. \ pint turpentine. Mix the lime-water
and linseed oil by well shaking, then add the sweet
oil; when thoroughly incorporated, thin down with
turps. Shake up when using, and apply, rather
liberally, with wadding or soft rag, rubbing all
over; wipe oft' with a soft rag. fairly damp with
methylated spirits, changing the face of the rag
occasionally to enable you the better to remove all
greasiness and smears. You may then, if you like,
touch up any carvings or mouldings with a little
French polish or spirit varnish, applied with a
camel-hair brush.— Lifeboat.

' MANUALS OF TECHNOLOGY.

Edited byProt AYRTON, F.R.S., and RICHARD

WORMELL, D.Sc., M.A.

The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics. P>y J. T-

HUMMEL, F.C.S.. Professor and Director of the Dyeim? De-

S artu.ent of the Yorkshire College, l.eeds. With Nunicrou>
•iagrams. Seventh Thousand. $s.

Steel and Iron. By William He*ry Greenwood,

F.C.S., M.I.M.E.. etc. With 97 Diagrams from Original Work¬
ing Drawings. Fifth Edition. 5s.

Spinning Woollen and Worsted. By W. S.

BRIGHT McLaren. M.P., Worsted Spinuer. With 69 Dia¬
grams. Second Edition. 4s. 6d.

Cutting Tools. By Prof. H. R. Smith, Professor of

Mechanical Engineering. Sir Jo«eph Mason’s Col'ege. B rming-
ham. With 14 Folding Plates and 51 Woodcuts. 1 hirti Edition.
3S. 6d.

Practical Mechanics. By J. Perrv, M.E.. Pro¬
fessor of Mechanical Engineering, City and Cuilds of London
Technical College, Finsbury. With Numerous Illustrations.
Third Edition. 3s. 6d.

Design in Textile Fabrics. By T. R. Arhen-

HURnt, H*ad Master. Textile Department, Bradford Technical
College. With 10 Coloured Plates and 106 Diagrams. Thiru
Edition. 4s. 6d.

Watch and Clock Making. By D. Glasgow, Vice-

President, British Horological Institute. Second Edition. 4s. 6d.

Cassell & Company, Limited, Ludgatc Hill , London,

WORK

is published at La Bells Sauvage, Ludgate Hill , London, at
9 o'clock every Wednesday morning,and should be obtainable every¬
where throughout the United Kingdom on Friday at the latest.

TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION.

8 months, free by post .Is. 8(L

e months, „ .Ss. 3d.

12 months, * .6s. 6d.

Postal Orders or Post Office Orders payAhle at the General
Post Ofllce. Loudon,to Cassell and Company. Limited.

Terms for thb Insertion of advertisements in eao»

Weekly Issue. - .

One Page
Half Page
Quarter Pa
Eighth oft

Quarter Page .3 12

Eighth of a Page.1 17

One-Sixteenth of a Page- -----10
lu Column, per inch ...... 0 10

8mall

Advertisements, such as Situations Wante l

and Exchange, Twenty Words or less, One Shilling, and On*
Penny per Word extra if over Twenty. All Other Adver¬
tisements in Sale and Exchange Column aro charged Ouo<
Shilling per Line (averaging eight words).

Prominent Positions, or a series of insertions,
by special arrangement.

••• Advertisements should reach the Officefourteen
day8 in advance of (he date of issue.

SALE AND EXCHANGE.

Victor Cycle Co., Grimsby, sell Mail Cart Wheels. [7 ft
Wlio’8 Lunt?— Why, the Best Man for Joiners’ Tools.,
of warranted quality. Send stamp for our Seventh Edition-
Reduced Price List.— Lunt, Tool Merchant, 297, Hack¬
ney Road, London, E. [9 i<

The Universal Amateur Exchange.— Electri-
cal, Optical, Mechanical, Chemical, Photographic, etc-
Established 1862. Catalogues, 2d.—A. Caplatzj, Chenies*
Street, Bedford Square. 1x8 k

The Buyers’ Guide to Books on Mechanical
Subjects, by English and American Authors, 6d. The
best book on Lathe, with chapters on Screw-cutting, Metal¬
spinning, 3s.; soiled copies, 2s. The latest and mest com¬
plete Treatise on Screws of every kind, with numerous,
illustrations. English, American, Swiss, and French
Threads, 3s.; soiled copies, 2s. Above are published and
sold by Britannia Co., Tool Makers, Colchester, and
sent post free. [19 R

Turning Classes or Turning Lessons.— Those
who would be wil ing to conduct evening classes; also those
who can give instruction at their own house, are requested
to forward their address, stating which they can undertake
—Britannia Co., Colchester. Technical schoo’s and
workshops fitted up complete with tools, engines, shafting,
etc. [20 R

Model Ships’ Fittings, Model Engines, etc.—
Catalogue, 70 illustrations, 4d.—S tiffin & Co., 324, Essex.
Road, London, N. ^

Paper Letters, Rubber Stamps, etc.— Agents
should apply for samples (free).— Willcox Brothers, 172.
Blackfriars Road, London, S.E. [2 s

Lettering and Sign-Writing made Easy.—
Also full-size diagrams lor marking out eight alphabets,
only is. — F. Coulthard, Darlington Street, Bath.
Note.—100 Decorators’ Stencils (60 large sheets), 2s. 6d.
Fret, Carving, and Repousse Patterns.—

100 of either, full-size, is.; 300 Turning Designs, is. ; 400
small Stencils, is.; 500 Shields, Monograms, &c., is., post¬
age free.— F. Coulthard, Darlington Street, Bath (late
Bournemouth). fo s

Alberts, white metal all through; warranted; is. 3d.
post free.—K. Heap, Castle Street, Southport. I4 &

Cricket Tackle.— Bargains ; must sell. Four splen¬
did all cane-handled match bats, grand driving blades, and
worth 13s. each, price 7s. each ; two best balls, 3 s. gd. each ;
set polished stumps, 4*. 9^- i P air leatl l er Wlck « l S'oves,
3s. 6d. ; pair batting gloves, 4 s. 6d.; pair leg guards, 5 s. 0d.;
and handsome guinea Marjlebone cricket hag, 10s. 6d., or
if all taken, will accept £3 3s. A ll quite new, and approval
before purchase.—S ecretary, Bloemfontein House, Shep¬
herd’s Bush, London. « s

Shop , e tc.

[Work—June 27, 189L

Valve.— E. F. (St. James's). — In any well-de¬
signed safety-valve, the valve should not be able to
be removed from its seat without, as you remark,
first removing the pin in the end of the lever. In
order to prevent the valve being blown out of its
seat, there is generally a guide for the lever which
allows it to lift sufficiently for the proper escape of
the steam through the valve, and is then stopped
by the top of the slotted guide a, which can be seen
in the accompanying sketch of an ordinary safety-
valve. The valve itself should be provided with

Valve.

three or four wings (b), which guide it vertically
and prevent it being blown sideways by the es¬
caping steam. This is the commonest form of
safety-valve; and some are made without the
guide (a), but very few indeed, in which case, by
swinging the lever over, the valve can be removed
without taking out the pin. The various spring
safety-valve9, which are innumerable, almost al¬
ways have some contrivance to prevent the blow¬
ing out of the valve.—P. B. H.

Walking-Sticks. — E. H. \ Sunderland). —The
following are addresses of makers and carvers of
walking-sticks: Henry Howell & Co., 180, Old Street,
London, E.C.; J. Slugg, 27, St. John’s Road, Hoxton,
London, N.-H. W.

Model Electric Lights. — T. T. (Harlesden,
N. W.).— Consult the Indexes to Vols. I. and II. of
Work.

Camera — G. M. F. (Falmouth) will find m
Work, Vol. I., full particulars for constructing a
whole-plate camera from one of the best makers’
designs—that of George Hare. Every maker in the
present day introduces some variation in pattern or
movements—many of which are unnecessary, and
only add to the complications of the instrument,
which cannot be too simple, provided the really
useful movements are retained. With regard to
the quarter-plate size, if the principal measurements
given are reduced to a fourth, you will practically
nave all the information you require. Or course, in
such a small camera the woodwork may be made
lighter, and some of the clamping neglected. The
length of the bellows is quite arbitrary, so long a9
the length is sufficient for the lens used. It is quite
impracticable to supply you with working drawings
for any camera. If Underwood’s is the one you have
decided on, we see no other way out of the diffi¬
culty than that you should procure one and copy it.
As to the lens, so much depends on the kind of
work you intend doing. The best plan is to be
provided with several of different focal lengths. If
you are limited to one, there is nothing better than
Dallmeyer’s rapid rectilinear lens, of 6 in. focus:
and the next most useful is a Ross symmetrical, of
8 in. focus. There are now so many good lenses in
the market that we cannot particularise them ;
those mentioned are universally approved standard
instruments, and if they are used properly, any
shortcomings in the photograph can not be attributed
to their inefficiency. For interiors a wide angle
rectilinear is almost necessary, other kinds not
including enough subject, especially in confined
spaces.— D.

Xylonite.— G. A. B. (Normanton).— Write to the
manufacturers for their prices.

III.— Questions Submitted to Correspondents.

Wood-Turner’s Pattern Book.— T. F. ( Aber¬
deen ) writesI shall feel obliged if any reader
will tell me where I could get this.”

Crystoleum Painting.— Paint-Brush writes:
— 44 1 find that when a photo is fixed on the glass
with corn-flour paste, that three out of four times
it shrinks away and puckers al the edges. Would
any of your correspondents tell me another medium
I can use to do the same?”

Buff Leather. — R. S. (Gloucester) writes:—
“Will any reader kindly inform me where I can
get buff leather such as soldiers’ belts are made
of, with price per pound?”

V.—Brief Acknowledgments.

Questions have been received from the following correspon¬
dents. and answers only await space in 8Hor, upon which there
is «reat pressure .-—Edison Phonograph Co. ; Hopeful; F. J.
(Rochdale): w. R. R. (Carlisle ); A. F. (Dublin): Young Engine
Driver; N. D. P. (Manningham); M. G. H. (Smethwick); J. T.

(Chesterfield ): J. E. P. ( Accrington ); Good Iron : Polishrr;
W. O. R. (Glasgow): J. G. (. Edinburgh ); W. J. (No Address);
W. J. iPortsea): amateur Mechanic: J. D. (Hull); C. F.
(Sherborne': Bookworm ; L. S. (Beaverstown ); 8blf-Hklpbr ;
W. T. (Stratford-on-Avon) ; F. P. (Dover ): T. 8. (Manchester) :
W. B. & SONS < Edinburgh); J. P. A. ( Walthamstoio); G. M.
( London. E.C.)\ H. B. (East Hartlepool ); B. W. (Chingfordi ;
M. G. S. (Poplar): ’AN Old Edisonian ; A Playrr ; Lkmur;
F. W. R. (South Shields); HOU8B PainTBr; 3. A. (Bum Icy) ;
R. C. (Mayfield'; .T. H. (Cork); NKBO; A CONSTANT RbadkB;
T. R. (A shlon- le- Willows).